TOYOTA Leh Jayenge
Day 16. Homeward bound. The Final stretch and waiting arms!
30th May 2010, Sunday.
Route : Hodal to Lucknow via Mathura, Agra, Firozabad, and Kanpur. Distance 250 kms.
Morning tea was in bed and we were down for breakfast by 9.30, and a nice bright sun welcomed us again. The Dining hall was bustling with activity as it was also attached to a huge showroom displaying curios, artifacts, memorabilia and souvenirs made of wood, stone, marble, metals and much more. The collection of these and some fabric based items would require a whole day to go through. Perhaps we would do that next time we were here.
Mouthwatering Parathas with aloo ki subzi, omlettes and other options helped us fill our tanks up and we said our goodbyes to our wonderful hosts after a brief photo session outside the Haveli like motel. It was 10 am and I took the wheel. The cheer was in the air as we were finally completing a blemish less trip laden with spills, thrills, adventure, bonhomie, male bonding, and more.
We were a bit solemn that it would all end, but looking forward to getting grounded! We’d actually being living out of our suitcases and in fact got used to it!
Mathura came on the Horizon and so did U.P. the traffic went unruly and the laziness was evident. But that was home for us! Up came a McDonald’s and we were ready to have the last binge………….strawberry thick shakes! Satiated, we moved on and got through the terrible Agra traffic, somehow.
The highway was good and aside from the cyclists and motorcyclist who drove in from different directions, making their own rules, we did good time. Vijay took over from me and as we approached Kanpur, Shekhar who was on the wheel next from Firozabad, and suggested we stop at a place he was familiar with, for Lunch. It was a cute little food outlet which was thankfully cool and clean and we made do with some Chinese and Indian food which was palatable.
By now all the phones had started to ring, timing our arrival into Lucknow. It was almost 3 pm and in two hours we would be touching Lucknow. We were energized at the though of returning back and around 5.30 touched down at Amausi. Our ride would deliver us at our doorsteps!
The good part was that we would be meeting again soon, to catch up with the little anecdotes that made this trip so memorable. We negotiated the Sunday traffic at Alambagh and a detour from Jail road, and were finally at Nisheeth’s home, and Nisheeth promptly in the waiting arms of Bonnie. Vijay, dutifully handed over the Naughty Kid to Bon, in entirety…. nappies, bottles, biscuits and bags. The delightful faces all around said it all.
Next stop was Vijay and Roma in waiting, along with Caesar the doggie. I was next and Neelam , my mom, Pranay, our son and Esha our daughter in law were dying to catch up with all that Leh Jayenge was!
Amazing is all I can say……..and an experience that will be embedded in our life’s special history archived for posterity.
As we said our good byes, the Fortuner with Shekhar and Sadhana drove into oblivion, hopefully with another opportunity to head in a different direction, very soon!
Cheers guys and friends, for encouraging us all the way, with your comments and kind words and I hope you enjoyed reading this as much as I enjoyed living and writing each day, on this wonderful journey to Leh and back. We’ll be back, I promise!
Like it says, at the back of our Fortuner…………….Live it up….You’re middle aged only once! This is Kiron Chopra...signing off.........but only for now!
En Route in Hodal
Rajasthan Royals? Ready for the home stretch.
En Route to Pangong
At Changla Pass almost 17500 ft. the Third highest in the world.
En Route in leh
Testing the Magnetism of the foursome?!
En Route to Leh
Driving and living on the edge!
En Route from Leh to Kargil
The Colours that never cease to fascinate!
En Route to Pangong
Finding Alternate Routes
Sunny Toyota Lucknow
enroute pictures
connected always - wordsmith
enroute picture
dhabba lunch - kashmiri style
enroute pictures
kashmir valley - taking our breath away
enroute pictures
valley view break - on way to srinagar
enroute pictures
connected with uninor ready for day 3
enroute pictures
backing up at nirulas pathankot
Saturday, June 5, 2010
Day 15. A Flavour of Rajasthan in UP. A Stormy welcome! But not before we finally had the Lassi!
TOYOTA Leh Jayenge
Day 15. A Flavour of Rajasthan in UP. A Stormy welcome! But not before we finally had the Lassi!
29th May 2010, Saturday.
Route : Chandigarh to Hodal via Ambala, Karnal and Delhi. Distance 250 kms.
We had decided to start early. Reason being the dense traffic at Delhi and the time to be spent with Nikon. And how could we go back without the Lassi! Nisheeth would never forgive us.
We were ready and set at 7.30. For a change, skipped breakfast and Shekhar was diligently getting the luggage in place, chilled drinks in the ice box, et all. Nisheeth was first at the wheel and we decided to ask the lady on the GPS to help us out of town, which she did. As we hit the highway, we agreed to stop in a couple of hours for breakfast, when the driver would change too. Two hours on the highway and looking forward to the last halt tonight, kinda gave a mixed feeling. One of delight to be back with family and the comfort of home and the other of being deprived of days of fun, food and masti. But that’s when we started to talk of the next trip which could be the East of India or Rajasthan or even the South!
It was 9.30, we’d suffered enough and were ready for breakfast for sure. The Dhaba watch started in good time and although we crossed many, settled for one with shaded parking and a ‘breakfast’ sign. Dosa and parathas it was with some lassi which did not meet with Nisheeth’s approval so we were where we started! I had now taken over from Nisheeth. We were just on our way when we spotted a ‘Haveli’ and despite a full tank, the Lassi had to be acquired. Nisheeth and Vijay ran in to pick up some chilled sweet lassi in earthenware glasses and it was more than worth it as it tasted out of this world indeed! And a bonus for Nisheeth………….the Haveli was strewn with eye candy! What a great start for the day!
Although we were not destined to return via Manali as originally scheduled, we had to retrace this leg anyways and soon were through Ambala. The Lassi had done the trick as Nisheeth eased into his seat and drifted into a little nap……..tank showing ‘FULL’!
Soon we were passing Karnal and at a convenient spot, eased ourselves and switched turns, with Shekhar at the wheel. Delhi was not far………..and the heat outside, blended with some lilting FM music and jingles from Nisheet’s by now famous phone, got us into Delhi pretty quick.
We committed the cardinal mistake of listening to Ms GPS and ended up in some side streets of North Delhi, in the vicinity of the University area. And we were headed for Ashram! Somehow, a cop helped us head in the right direction and as Shekhar struggled with the organized chaos that is Delhi, we finally made it to Ashram. Thereafter we had to locate the Nikon service centre in Okhla Phase 3 which we finally managed to locate after a struggle. Vijay’s camera was an expensive one so the repair was not cheap either. Anyway, having figured things out, we were on our way again and Vijay refused to take over from Shekhar citing Delhi blues. Shekhar, the sporting guy that he is, held on and hit the Mathura road, on our way to Hodal. It was almost 2 pm and we thought of stopping for a bite than decided otherwise as the Lassi still had its presence felt. As we headed for Hodal, I seemed to have dozed off too, until I was woken up by a lot of conversation about a storm outside. Sure enough, the entire stretch was affected. A dust storm of intensity that uprooted trees and hoardings had left its telltale marks. The little rain that followed seemed to cool down the temperature though.
Before sunset, we entered this compound on the main road, just short of Mathura, that housed this magnificent Rajasthani building called Rajasthan Motels. Owned by a friend of Shekhar’s, Mr Ajit Singh, it was a relief to get our feet back on the ground. The temperature had dropped almost 10 deg C so it had become bearable. The landscaped surroundings with curated gardens, Lotus ponds, fountains, piped music and a little fish pond on the side, gave it a very royal feel. As we moved to our rooms and eased out of our shoes, we realized we were famished and collected in the dining hall, for some tea and snacks. No prizes for guessing that the star attraction was onion pakoras!
Very soon, Ajit and his family and some common friends of Shekhar’s from Delhi also joined us and we were soon sharing our little adventure with all of them.
Ajit had specially got the swimming pool cleaned and refilled with fresh water from the gushing tubewell and we were looking forward to just jump in. However the storm had had other ideas and the pool was strewn with petals and muck that would now require the entire process to be redone. But with the weather becoming pleasant as were the surroundings, we chose to just relax in the midst of the vast expanse of greenery and enjoy the gracious hospitality of the hosts in the form of cocktails and snacks followed by a very typical and delicious Rajasthani dinner. Dal Bati and an array that was all different flavors for some of us. It had been a long day again and although we had relaxed for the evening, the last stretch seemed to be something we all wanted to get on to.
We retired to our respective rooms and were in no hurry to get up the next morning as we had time on hand. It was a 250 km drive and we would be Lucknow in good light, irrespective.
Day 15. A Flavour of Rajasthan in UP. A Stormy welcome! But not before we finally had the Lassi!
29th May 2010, Saturday.
Route : Chandigarh to Hodal via Ambala, Karnal and Delhi. Distance 250 kms.
We had decided to start early. Reason being the dense traffic at Delhi and the time to be spent with Nikon. And how could we go back without the Lassi! Nisheeth would never forgive us.
We were ready and set at 7.30. For a change, skipped breakfast and Shekhar was diligently getting the luggage in place, chilled drinks in the ice box, et all. Nisheeth was first at the wheel and we decided to ask the lady on the GPS to help us out of town, which she did. As we hit the highway, we agreed to stop in a couple of hours for breakfast, when the driver would change too. Two hours on the highway and looking forward to the last halt tonight, kinda gave a mixed feeling. One of delight to be back with family and the comfort of home and the other of being deprived of days of fun, food and masti. But that’s when we started to talk of the next trip which could be the East of India or Rajasthan or even the South!
It was 9.30, we’d suffered enough and were ready for breakfast for sure. The Dhaba watch started in good time and although we crossed many, settled for one with shaded parking and a ‘breakfast’ sign. Dosa and parathas it was with some lassi which did not meet with Nisheeth’s approval so we were where we started! I had now taken over from Nisheeth. We were just on our way when we spotted a ‘Haveli’ and despite a full tank, the Lassi had to be acquired. Nisheeth and Vijay ran in to pick up some chilled sweet lassi in earthenware glasses and it was more than worth it as it tasted out of this world indeed! And a bonus for Nisheeth………….the Haveli was strewn with eye candy! What a great start for the day!
Although we were not destined to return via Manali as originally scheduled, we had to retrace this leg anyways and soon were through Ambala. The Lassi had done the trick as Nisheeth eased into his seat and drifted into a little nap……..tank showing ‘FULL’!
Soon we were passing Karnal and at a convenient spot, eased ourselves and switched turns, with Shekhar at the wheel. Delhi was not far………..and the heat outside, blended with some lilting FM music and jingles from Nisheet’s by now famous phone, got us into Delhi pretty quick.
We committed the cardinal mistake of listening to Ms GPS and ended up in some side streets of North Delhi, in the vicinity of the University area. And we were headed for Ashram! Somehow, a cop helped us head in the right direction and as Shekhar struggled with the organized chaos that is Delhi, we finally made it to Ashram. Thereafter we had to locate the Nikon service centre in Okhla Phase 3 which we finally managed to locate after a struggle. Vijay’s camera was an expensive one so the repair was not cheap either. Anyway, having figured things out, we were on our way again and Vijay refused to take over from Shekhar citing Delhi blues. Shekhar, the sporting guy that he is, held on and hit the Mathura road, on our way to Hodal. It was almost 2 pm and we thought of stopping for a bite than decided otherwise as the Lassi still had its presence felt. As we headed for Hodal, I seemed to have dozed off too, until I was woken up by a lot of conversation about a storm outside. Sure enough, the entire stretch was affected. A dust storm of intensity that uprooted trees and hoardings had left its telltale marks. The little rain that followed seemed to cool down the temperature though.
Before sunset, we entered this compound on the main road, just short of Mathura, that housed this magnificent Rajasthani building called Rajasthan Motels. Owned by a friend of Shekhar’s, Mr Ajit Singh, it was a relief to get our feet back on the ground. The temperature had dropped almost 10 deg C so it had become bearable. The landscaped surroundings with curated gardens, Lotus ponds, fountains, piped music and a little fish pond on the side, gave it a very royal feel. As we moved to our rooms and eased out of our shoes, we realized we were famished and collected in the dining hall, for some tea and snacks. No prizes for guessing that the star attraction was onion pakoras!
Very soon, Ajit and his family and some common friends of Shekhar’s from Delhi also joined us and we were soon sharing our little adventure with all of them.
Ajit had specially got the swimming pool cleaned and refilled with fresh water from the gushing tubewell and we were looking forward to just jump in. However the storm had had other ideas and the pool was strewn with petals and muck that would now require the entire process to be redone. But with the weather becoming pleasant as were the surroundings, we chose to just relax in the midst of the vast expanse of greenery and enjoy the gracious hospitality of the hosts in the form of cocktails and snacks followed by a very typical and delicious Rajasthani dinner. Dal Bati and an array that was all different flavors for some of us. It had been a long day again and although we had relaxed for the evening, the last stretch seemed to be something we all wanted to get on to.
We retired to our respective rooms and were in no hurry to get up the next morning as we had time on hand. It was a 250 km drive and we would be Lucknow in good light, irrespective.
Days 13 and 14, Chandigarh. Taj Poshi! A Le Corbusier welcome!
TOYOTA Leh Jayenge
Days 13 and 14. Recharging in Style. Taj Chandigarh ki Mehmaan nawazi!
27th and 28th May 2010, Thursday and Friday.
Route : Pathankot to Chandigarh. About 270 kms. Mostly National and State Highways. Via Phagwara and Ludhiana.
It was a lazy start. Got up leisurely and Blue was the colour of the day. The skies followed suit except the aura of heat generated by Mr Sun was blinding and the mercury touching 45 deg. C. Shekhar and Sadhana were ready early and the awesome threesome ( me, Nisheeth and Vijay) who shared the room, were flitting in and out of the bathroom tried to get our act together, interspaced with morning tea and some missed calls. Yes, they were back and Nisheeth was a busy man. The minute the phone signals were back, so were the MISSed ones, with a vengeance. They were averaging at 6 to 7 a day!
By around 10 am, breakfast was ordered in the Hotel room itself and omlettes and breads later we were burping and ready. Shekhar in the meanwhile was down with the Fortuner, trying to get rid of unwanted junk in the luggage storage area and organizing the water and essentials for each passenger, as he had been doing religiously and immaculately, all these days. Only today, it was a perspiring effort!
As the luggage was brought down and I settled the Hotel account, it was touching 11 am and we had an estimate 5 hours of driving time ahead of us, with our usual stoppages customized to individual needs!
We were kind of getting used to the scorching temperatures and Nisheeth at the wheel negotiated the unruly Pathankot traffic and we were soon on the state highway to Phagwara. The air conditioning shielded us from the pot boiling temperatures outside and some good old hindi film numbers had us humming along. Nisheeth tried to catch his forty winks, whenever we let him, which was not too often and his hunger pangs were a few hours away, so it was pretty manageable.
The Punjab terrain was dotted with well tilled fields and hard working farmers. Infrastructure was also visibly being upgraded everywhere. We were looking forward to our lunch stop at the gorgeous Orchid Cabana Hotel which we had discovered on our way up to Leh. We would get in there in a couple of hours or more. The traffic was a deterrent since the state highway construction work limited the top speed and the we ambled into Phagwara by 1.45 pm. The cool and pristine environment of the Orchid was welcome and we settled down for some chilled drinks and a lightish lunch. The Lassi saga had eluded us again as Nisheeth insisted that we visit the ‘Haveli’ and we never seemed to spot one at the right time.
I took over the wheel, an hour later and headed for Ludhiana, not very far away. We had some shopping to do, at the Monte Carlo factory outlet, we had visited on our way to Leh. So we pulled up and picked our pockets and the store for goodies and headed for Chandigarh through an exit to the highway.
The GPS on board provided by Toyota obviously had some updation to be done as new roads and flyovers beat its imagination. At times we would have driven in the opposite direction so ‘mute’ was what it was told to do. Some asking and road signs later, we were finally headed for Chandigarh.
Around 5 pm, we spotted a Dhabha which offered some tea, and cold water, besides our very loved onion pakoras.
At the rate we were going, eating driving, then stopping, eating, sleeping and eating again………….our rotund profiles would raise a few eyebrows when we got back…………..but what the hell, weren’t we supposed to be holidaying?! So more pakoras and chai later, we were headed for Chandigarh. Vijay had taken over and handed the wheel to Shekhar an hour and a half before we hit Le Corbusier’s creation………Chandigarh. The GPS helped here as all the Sectors looked similar and we had no clue which direction to head once we entered. A well planned city and a GPS that wasn’t confused was what took us to the Taj Residency in Chandigarh.
We were accorded a very warm and traditional welcome and allocated our rooms. We chilled out and decided to go for a swim. Except Nisheeth who chose to relax in bed with his phone on tap, Vijay, Shekhar and me cooled ourselves in the first floor pool which was heavenly and refreshing. A cool stormy breeze also helped.
The appetite built up, and Nisheeth showing signs of hunger pangs with his fuel needle precariously heading for red, we headed for the bar and enjoyed the ambience and some great chilled beer. This was followed by a special menu at the Black Lotus Chinese restaurant on the property. The Chef had churned up a few of his specialties and we gorged on what was served.
It had been a long yet fun day so we chose to call it a day and agreed to meet for breakfast the next morning.
The morning of Friday the 28th May at the Taj Residency Chandigarh, started as planned. A lavish breakfast menu and Vijay in his Kurta and Pyjama adding a dash of Lucknow to the surroundings. Idlis and Dosas, eggs to order, cold cuts and sausages, beans and roasties and more…………..we let go and splurged for the same reason as always………! We figured out our programme for the day and decided to meet in the lobby 11.30 ish, after a shower.
We had planned to leave for a new Spa place called Moksha, for lunch. It had been recommended by a friend who had been there. It was just above Timber Trail, enroute to Kasauli and Simla, about a couple of hours away.
I took the wheel soon after we reconvened and thanks again to the GPS found our way out headed for Timber Trail. It was a winding and congested route, past Pinjore gardens. Once there, we were disappointed to learn that due to the still gusty winds, the ropeway which one would have to take to get to Moksha, would be risky and had been suspended for now. So we changed course towards Kasauli to another resort, Kasauli Resorts, for a bite of Lunch. Winding narrow roads later and a terrain full of monkeys and meat pickles, besides the cute toy train that runs through the hills to Simla, we were in Kasauli resorts just before 3.30. It was a great place with a lovely view. The restaurant had a deck overlooking a valley and we savored the view before the food arrived. Tandoori Chicken and dal and some great rotis helped ease the pangs and we then sauntered around the property admiring the curated gardens and flower patches. Around 5 pm we were back on the road to Chandigarh when a Baskin Robbins beckoned us. As we headed back, we spotted a shop selling Apple cider which Vijay apparently liked. So we picked up a bottle which turned out to be something completely different. Moral of the story………..when you want cider, go to Europe!
As we entered the outskirts of Chandigarh, Nisheeth and Vijay spotted a sweet meat shop and couldn’t hold back. And lo and behold we had half a kilo of fresh milk cake on board! Delicious it was, as I managed to get a few bites while I drove. The day was relaxed yet tiring, but fun. We were just unwinding. As we entered the Hotel, the in house shopping centre in the Hotel complex caught our attention so we browsed around for a while before hitting the showers and meeting over dinner at Dera, the Indian restaurant. The menu was special………….Raan! Anyone reading this blog would probably think we were on a Vir Sanghvi rude food trip. I guess, that was our way of saying, 'agar Leh jana hai, that’s only food for thought!'
Nisheeth was however complaining about being deprived of eye candy since he hadn’t got an opportunity to ogle at the sights in Sector 17. No one was wanting to do any such thing at 11 pm. So I volunteered to walk him down just so he’d have a good nights sleep. We settled for a paan and decided to call it a night.
Next morning was our scheduled drive to Hodal, via Delhi, where Vijay was to meet the Nikon guys to check on his camera under repair. We were certainly not looking forward to civilization that is Delhi! But the light at the end of this tunnel was home………that was motivation enough!
Signing off, as I watch NDTV news in the Hotel room and almost dozing off!
Catch you guys en route to Hodal and there!
Days 13 and 14. Recharging in Style. Taj Chandigarh ki Mehmaan nawazi!
27th and 28th May 2010, Thursday and Friday.
Route : Pathankot to Chandigarh. About 270 kms. Mostly National and State Highways. Via Phagwara and Ludhiana.
It was a lazy start. Got up leisurely and Blue was the colour of the day. The skies followed suit except the aura of heat generated by Mr Sun was blinding and the mercury touching 45 deg. C. Shekhar and Sadhana were ready early and the awesome threesome ( me, Nisheeth and Vijay) who shared the room, were flitting in and out of the bathroom tried to get our act together, interspaced with morning tea and some missed calls. Yes, they were back and Nisheeth was a busy man. The minute the phone signals were back, so were the MISSed ones, with a vengeance. They were averaging at 6 to 7 a day!
By around 10 am, breakfast was ordered in the Hotel room itself and omlettes and breads later we were burping and ready. Shekhar in the meanwhile was down with the Fortuner, trying to get rid of unwanted junk in the luggage storage area and organizing the water and essentials for each passenger, as he had been doing religiously and immaculately, all these days. Only today, it was a perspiring effort!
As the luggage was brought down and I settled the Hotel account, it was touching 11 am and we had an estimate 5 hours of driving time ahead of us, with our usual stoppages customized to individual needs!
We were kind of getting used to the scorching temperatures and Nisheeth at the wheel negotiated the unruly Pathankot traffic and we were soon on the state highway to Phagwara. The air conditioning shielded us from the pot boiling temperatures outside and some good old hindi film numbers had us humming along. Nisheeth tried to catch his forty winks, whenever we let him, which was not too often and his hunger pangs were a few hours away, so it was pretty manageable.
The Punjab terrain was dotted with well tilled fields and hard working farmers. Infrastructure was also visibly being upgraded everywhere. We were looking forward to our lunch stop at the gorgeous Orchid Cabana Hotel which we had discovered on our way up to Leh. We would get in there in a couple of hours or more. The traffic was a deterrent since the state highway construction work limited the top speed and the we ambled into Phagwara by 1.45 pm. The cool and pristine environment of the Orchid was welcome and we settled down for some chilled drinks and a lightish lunch. The Lassi saga had eluded us again as Nisheeth insisted that we visit the ‘Haveli’ and we never seemed to spot one at the right time.
I took over the wheel, an hour later and headed for Ludhiana, not very far away. We had some shopping to do, at the Monte Carlo factory outlet, we had visited on our way to Leh. So we pulled up and picked our pockets and the store for goodies and headed for Chandigarh through an exit to the highway.
The GPS on board provided by Toyota obviously had some updation to be done as new roads and flyovers beat its imagination. At times we would have driven in the opposite direction so ‘mute’ was what it was told to do. Some asking and road signs later, we were finally headed for Chandigarh.
Around 5 pm, we spotted a Dhabha which offered some tea, and cold water, besides our very loved onion pakoras.
At the rate we were going, eating driving, then stopping, eating, sleeping and eating again………….our rotund profiles would raise a few eyebrows when we got back…………..but what the hell, weren’t we supposed to be holidaying?! So more pakoras and chai later, we were headed for Chandigarh. Vijay had taken over and handed the wheel to Shekhar an hour and a half before we hit Le Corbusier’s creation………Chandigarh. The GPS helped here as all the Sectors looked similar and we had no clue which direction to head once we entered. A well planned city and a GPS that wasn’t confused was what took us to the Taj Residency in Chandigarh.
We were accorded a very warm and traditional welcome and allocated our rooms. We chilled out and decided to go for a swim. Except Nisheeth who chose to relax in bed with his phone on tap, Vijay, Shekhar and me cooled ourselves in the first floor pool which was heavenly and refreshing. A cool stormy breeze also helped.
The appetite built up, and Nisheeth showing signs of hunger pangs with his fuel needle precariously heading for red, we headed for the bar and enjoyed the ambience and some great chilled beer. This was followed by a special menu at the Black Lotus Chinese restaurant on the property. The Chef had churned up a few of his specialties and we gorged on what was served.
It had been a long yet fun day so we chose to call it a day and agreed to meet for breakfast the next morning.
The morning of Friday the 28th May at the Taj Residency Chandigarh, started as planned. A lavish breakfast menu and Vijay in his Kurta and Pyjama adding a dash of Lucknow to the surroundings. Idlis and Dosas, eggs to order, cold cuts and sausages, beans and roasties and more…………..we let go and splurged for the same reason as always………! We figured out our programme for the day and decided to meet in the lobby 11.30 ish, after a shower.
We had planned to leave for a new Spa place called Moksha, for lunch. It had been recommended by a friend who had been there. It was just above Timber Trail, enroute to Kasauli and Simla, about a couple of hours away.
I took the wheel soon after we reconvened and thanks again to the GPS found our way out headed for Timber Trail. It was a winding and congested route, past Pinjore gardens. Once there, we were disappointed to learn that due to the still gusty winds, the ropeway which one would have to take to get to Moksha, would be risky and had been suspended for now. So we changed course towards Kasauli to another resort, Kasauli Resorts, for a bite of Lunch. Winding narrow roads later and a terrain full of monkeys and meat pickles, besides the cute toy train that runs through the hills to Simla, we were in Kasauli resorts just before 3.30. It was a great place with a lovely view. The restaurant had a deck overlooking a valley and we savored the view before the food arrived. Tandoori Chicken and dal and some great rotis helped ease the pangs and we then sauntered around the property admiring the curated gardens and flower patches. Around 5 pm we were back on the road to Chandigarh when a Baskin Robbins beckoned us. As we headed back, we spotted a shop selling Apple cider which Vijay apparently liked. So we picked up a bottle which turned out to be something completely different. Moral of the story………..when you want cider, go to Europe!
As we entered the outskirts of Chandigarh, Nisheeth and Vijay spotted a sweet meat shop and couldn’t hold back. And lo and behold we had half a kilo of fresh milk cake on board! Delicious it was, as I managed to get a few bites while I drove. The day was relaxed yet tiring, but fun. We were just unwinding. As we entered the Hotel, the in house shopping centre in the Hotel complex caught our attention so we browsed around for a while before hitting the showers and meeting over dinner at Dera, the Indian restaurant. The menu was special………….Raan! Anyone reading this blog would probably think we were on a Vir Sanghvi rude food trip. I guess, that was our way of saying, 'agar Leh jana hai, that’s only food for thought!'
Nisheeth was however complaining about being deprived of eye candy since he hadn’t got an opportunity to ogle at the sights in Sector 17. No one was wanting to do any such thing at 11 pm. So I volunteered to walk him down just so he’d have a good nights sleep. We settled for a paan and decided to call it a night.
Next morning was our scheduled drive to Hodal, via Delhi, where Vijay was to meet the Nikon guys to check on his camera under repair. We were certainly not looking forward to civilization that is Delhi! But the light at the end of this tunnel was home………that was motivation enough!
Signing off, as I watch NDTV news in the Hotel room and almost dozing off!
Catch you guys en route to Hodal and there!
Sunday, May 30, 2010
Day 12. Scorching under the sun even at 2500 meters. But loving it.
TOYOTA Leh Jayenge
Day 12. Scorching under the sun even at 2500 meters. But loving it.
26th May 2010, Wednesday.
Route : Srinagar to Pathankot via Udhampur. 385 Kms.
Woke up to another wonderful day in Srinagar and we all had caught up with the deficit by now. After a leisurely shower and a lavish breakfast at Raghvendra and Rakhi’s, our ever gracious hosts, we left Srinagar at 10.10 am, with Shekhar at the wheel. It was a great feeling to be back in shorts and T’s.
Most of the drive was through hills and we had to be vary of traffic jams and hold ups. We would be crossing Udhampur and Patni top. Jammu would be by passed as we would take the second part of the fork after entering Udhampur right next to the fuel station.
The drive was good in terms of the road but the traffic was extremely heavy and we had to negotiate some jams and holdups which put us behind the clock by almost an hour. After about 90 kms at Banihal, Vijay took over from Shekhar and it got hotter as we descended. It was now almost 42 deg C, and although the Fortuner was comfortable and chilled with the effective front and rear air conditioning. At around 2.30, we stopped at a JKTDC restaurant at Ram Baan, for a very basic lunch. The heat was at its sweltering best and we felt the blast each time we stepped out of the car.
Nisheeth was behind the wheel now and with his hourly stops reasonably reduced to longer intervals ( perhaps the weather had a part to play, rather than his intake of water), so it was smooth sailing. In fact, we had a consensus over the fact that Nisheeth had been the most accommodating out of all of us and we would even constitute and present him with an award! We crossed Kudh and some very green and red Anardana fields which blended beautifully with the lush green stretches which accompanied usWe highly recommend Kudh for a good break for anything if it is enroute as the infrastructure there is better than most places around. We stopped at a cute Dhaba, New Greenland, for our favorite Chai and Onion Pakoras.
We took the road to Sambha from Udhampur as planned and the track was picturesque with wild life protection measures taken all along the route. It was getting to be dusk and as we reached Sambha, Nisheeth handed over the wheel to me. AS we hit Sambha, the highway construction activity put paid to our intentions to reach earlier. The J & K roads were pitiful, especially near the border checkpost. When we reached the toll gate on the J& K and Punjab border, Vijay opened the window and asked the man incharge to pay us Rs 1000/- instead of charging us toll, for suffering the pain of traveling on roads that did not apparently exist. The hung jaw of the guy said it all. He then smiled and understood what we were trying to get at and told us he was just doing his job and sympathized with us.
It was dark now and we finally entered Pathankot city through the Cantonment, at about 9 pm. We were booked at Hotel Venice in the heart of the city which although a decent hotel was located close to the railway station and the approach was painful thanks to closed railway crossing. But Post a quick meal in the restaurant in the Hotel and were ready to go to bed. The next day was another long stretch to Chandigarh and getting hotter. We were lucky to have been away from these oppressive temperatures, but had to acclimatize again.
With Vijay ( Jahanpanah)and Nisheeth in their eternal role of the chaperone and chaperoned, constantly creating the lighter moments, it was on a happy note that we said our good nights. Some shopping at Ludhiana was also in store as was the famed Lassi that had been eluding Nisheeth. So Chandigarh here we come. We had kept an extra day at the Taj in Chandigarh ( also our co-sponsors in through their Vivanta brand) so we could catch up with some sleep as well.
Signing off. Catch you in and enroute to Chandigarh!
Day 12. Scorching under the sun even at 2500 meters. But loving it.
26th May 2010, Wednesday.
Route : Srinagar to Pathankot via Udhampur. 385 Kms.
Woke up to another wonderful day in Srinagar and we all had caught up with the deficit by now. After a leisurely shower and a lavish breakfast at Raghvendra and Rakhi’s, our ever gracious hosts, we left Srinagar at 10.10 am, with Shekhar at the wheel. It was a great feeling to be back in shorts and T’s.
Most of the drive was through hills and we had to be vary of traffic jams and hold ups. We would be crossing Udhampur and Patni top. Jammu would be by passed as we would take the second part of the fork after entering Udhampur right next to the fuel station.
The drive was good in terms of the road but the traffic was extremely heavy and we had to negotiate some jams and holdups which put us behind the clock by almost an hour. After about 90 kms at Banihal, Vijay took over from Shekhar and it got hotter as we descended. It was now almost 42 deg C, and although the Fortuner was comfortable and chilled with the effective front and rear air conditioning. At around 2.30, we stopped at a JKTDC restaurant at Ram Baan, for a very basic lunch. The heat was at its sweltering best and we felt the blast each time we stepped out of the car.
Nisheeth was behind the wheel now and with his hourly stops reasonably reduced to longer intervals ( perhaps the weather had a part to play, rather than his intake of water), so it was smooth sailing. In fact, we had a consensus over the fact that Nisheeth had been the most accommodating out of all of us and we would even constitute and present him with an award! We crossed Kudh and some very green and red Anardana fields which blended beautifully with the lush green stretches which accompanied usWe highly recommend Kudh for a good break for anything if it is enroute as the infrastructure there is better than most places around. We stopped at a cute Dhaba, New Greenland, for our favorite Chai and Onion Pakoras.
We took the road to Sambha from Udhampur as planned and the track was picturesque with wild life protection measures taken all along the route. It was getting to be dusk and as we reached Sambha, Nisheeth handed over the wheel to me. AS we hit Sambha, the highway construction activity put paid to our intentions to reach earlier. The J & K roads were pitiful, especially near the border checkpost. When we reached the toll gate on the J& K and Punjab border, Vijay opened the window and asked the man incharge to pay us Rs 1000/- instead of charging us toll, for suffering the pain of traveling on roads that did not apparently exist. The hung jaw of the guy said it all. He then smiled and understood what we were trying to get at and told us he was just doing his job and sympathized with us.
It was dark now and we finally entered Pathankot city through the Cantonment, at about 9 pm. We were booked at Hotel Venice in the heart of the city which although a decent hotel was located close to the railway station and the approach was painful thanks to closed railway crossing. But Post a quick meal in the restaurant in the Hotel and were ready to go to bed. The next day was another long stretch to Chandigarh and getting hotter. We were lucky to have been away from these oppressive temperatures, but had to acclimatize again.
With Vijay ( Jahanpanah)and Nisheeth in their eternal role of the chaperone and chaperoned, constantly creating the lighter moments, it was on a happy note that we said our good nights. Some shopping at Ludhiana was also in store as was the famed Lassi that had been eluding Nisheeth. So Chandigarh here we come. We had kept an extra day at the Taj in Chandigarh ( also our co-sponsors in through their Vivanta brand) so we could catch up with some sleep as well.
Signing off. Catch you in and enroute to Chandigarh!
Day 11. Tough on us, but we made it across the Dzo Zila pass and to Srinagar. Warm weather was welcome too!
TOYOTA Leh Jayenge
Day 11. Tough on us, but we made it across the Dzo Zila pass and to Srinagar. Warm weather was welcome too!
25th May 2010, Monday.
Route : Kargil to Srinagar via Drass and and Sonamarg.
We were up at 1.30 am and departed from Kargil at around 3 am. Barely having slept for 3 hours we were like zombies but raring to negotiate this crucial stretch across the Dzo Zila pass. Which had a been closed for 5 days when we had come up the same way.
It is a pity that the timings for traffic to and from Sonamarg are not part of standard tourist information in Hotels in Leh as it could leave people stranded in Kargil or Drass since hotel availability is limited.
Tip: Must find out about these traffic ‘release’ timings since these keep changing and on a particular day ( Friday as was told to us), the road is closed for maintenance.
I took the Steering wheel to start with. The road from Kargil to Drass was also in pitiable condition towards the approach to Drass in particular and we reached around 5 am, at the crack of dawn, soon after the traffic had been released and had to be content with following some of the trucks and buses. Shekhar was driving and we managed to overtake a few and with cold temperatures of as low as 6 deg C, we climbed and negotiated the Dzo Zila pass and down into the valley en route to Sonamarg.
We entered Sonamarg at around 8 am for a welcome toilet and breakfast break of freshly cooked Masala Omlettes and toasted bread, sitting in the very pleasant outdoors, in the lawns of Snowland Hotel. Everything seemed so familiar around , obviously. But it was a relief that we were headed in the opposite direction. The weather was holding and it was nice, bright and sunny as Vijay took over the wheel at around 9 am. We were now headed for Srinagar via Gund and some small Kashmiri villages along the Sind river. Srinagar was 85 kms away and would take around three hours now.
An hour and a half later Nisheeth took over for the last stretch and just about 30 kms short of Srinagar we had a flat tyre again. Dunlop tyres licked by a sharp pebble again. Point to note for Toyota. Fortunately again, we had a Tyre repair shop close at hand and we spent 20 minutes getting the job done. At 12.30 we were in Srinagar, dying to bathe and sleep. Vijay had organized another guest house and we just crashed out after lunch. Vijay’s brother in law who had been our gracious hosts when we were stuck on our way up, invited us over for drinks in the evening and we all had a wonderful time together. Relaxed and refreshed. Later we invited them for a meal at the famed Arabica restaurant in the Broadway Hotel for some char grilled platters which tasted heavenly. We turned in by 11 pm and had to prepare for the journey ahead, the next day, to Pathankot, a 10 hour 385 km stretch.
What was welcome was the warmer temperatures in Srinagar and the fact that our mobile signals were back! And believe it or not, so were the MISSed calls! Nisheeth logged in half a dozen starting with the first as we approached Srinagar. And the mystery just deepened, and so did our amusement. By now our hosts had also become accustomed to the fun element that followed Nisheeth and were equally amused.
The Fortuner was sent for a clean up job to a local service station after a thorough mud pack treatment received from its journey from Leh. It looked spanking clean and pretty too! So we parked her after refueling and gave her a well deserved rest. The plan to leave the next day at around 10 am and arrive in Pathankot by 9 pm or so. Sleep overcame us as we hit the sack.
Day 11. Tough on us, but we made it across the Dzo Zila pass and to Srinagar. Warm weather was welcome too!
25th May 2010, Monday.
Route : Kargil to Srinagar via Drass and and Sonamarg.
We were up at 1.30 am and departed from Kargil at around 3 am. Barely having slept for 3 hours we were like zombies but raring to negotiate this crucial stretch across the Dzo Zila pass. Which had a been closed for 5 days when we had come up the same way.
It is a pity that the timings for traffic to and from Sonamarg are not part of standard tourist information in Hotels in Leh as it could leave people stranded in Kargil or Drass since hotel availability is limited.
Tip: Must find out about these traffic ‘release’ timings since these keep changing and on a particular day ( Friday as was told to us), the road is closed for maintenance.
I took the Steering wheel to start with. The road from Kargil to Drass was also in pitiable condition towards the approach to Drass in particular and we reached around 5 am, at the crack of dawn, soon after the traffic had been released and had to be content with following some of the trucks and buses. Shekhar was driving and we managed to overtake a few and with cold temperatures of as low as 6 deg C, we climbed and negotiated the Dzo Zila pass and down into the valley en route to Sonamarg.
We entered Sonamarg at around 8 am for a welcome toilet and breakfast break of freshly cooked Masala Omlettes and toasted bread, sitting in the very pleasant outdoors, in the lawns of Snowland Hotel. Everything seemed so familiar around , obviously. But it was a relief that we were headed in the opposite direction. The weather was holding and it was nice, bright and sunny as Vijay took over the wheel at around 9 am. We were now headed for Srinagar via Gund and some small Kashmiri villages along the Sind river. Srinagar was 85 kms away and would take around three hours now.
An hour and a half later Nisheeth took over for the last stretch and just about 30 kms short of Srinagar we had a flat tyre again. Dunlop tyres licked by a sharp pebble again. Point to note for Toyota. Fortunately again, we had a Tyre repair shop close at hand and we spent 20 minutes getting the job done. At 12.30 we were in Srinagar, dying to bathe and sleep. Vijay had organized another guest house and we just crashed out after lunch. Vijay’s brother in law who had been our gracious hosts when we were stuck on our way up, invited us over for drinks in the evening and we all had a wonderful time together. Relaxed and refreshed. Later we invited them for a meal at the famed Arabica restaurant in the Broadway Hotel for some char grilled platters which tasted heavenly. We turned in by 11 pm and had to prepare for the journey ahead, the next day, to Pathankot, a 10 hour 385 km stretch.
What was welcome was the warmer temperatures in Srinagar and the fact that our mobile signals were back! And believe it or not, so were the MISSed calls! Nisheeth logged in half a dozen starting with the first as we approached Srinagar. And the mystery just deepened, and so did our amusement. By now our hosts had also become accustomed to the fun element that followed Nisheeth and were equally amused.
The Fortuner was sent for a clean up job to a local service station after a thorough mud pack treatment received from its journey from Leh. It looked spanking clean and pretty too! So we parked her after refueling and gave her a well deserved rest. The plan to leave the next day at around 10 am and arrive in Pathankot by 9 pm or so. Sleep overcame us as we hit the sack.
Day 10.Homeward bound. Dissapointed that the Manali route was closed.
TOYOTA Leh Jayenge
Day 10. Homeward Bound. Disappointed that Manali was closed
24th May 2010, Sunday.
Route : Leh to Kargil.
It was a short and sweet end to our short stay at Leh. Having lost two and a half days waiting at Sonamarg our options in Leh were cut short drastically. The Manali route being closed due to inclement weather was a dampener, as I had mentioned earlier and our side trips to Khardungla Pass and Tso Moriri had to be abandoned due to bad weather but we had been fortunate as Changla was closed soon after we came through. Both Pangong and other locations to sights around were cut off as well. We tried to extend our stay to catch up with what we could not cover but no rooms were available anywhere. Having said our goodbyes to our spouses who left at 9am, after a hearty breakfast together, we also left for Kargil.
To make a change in our route to Kargil, we opted for another route via Batalik along the Indus river. Our first concern was to cross the Dzo Zila pass and reach Sonamarg. Moreover we did not have a Hotel booking at Kargil and Shekhar had made some calls to get one. We had to wait, for the same to be confirmed.
It was a wonderful sunny day and the first stretch out of Leh had Nisheeth on the wheel. The roads leading us out were four laned flatland as mentioned before and we stopped a half hour later at the famed ‘Magnetic Hill’ where gravity is defied. A square which is painted on the middle of the highway marks the spot where, if one were to leave the car/vehicle in neutral, would experience a movement UPWARDS on the incline, defying gravity! We did just that but not before placing a half full bottle of water on the square to confirm that the ‘incline’ was not an optical illusion. Our Fortuner touched a speed of 60 km as we rolled on to the incline and as the road dipped, we sped. It was a unique experience alright.
Just a few kilometers on to the Batalik route, we noticed a cluster of rock formations on our right which glistened in the sun. These were obviously geological marvels, looking polished and lacquered and again a deft display of God’s artistic prowess. Soon after, 45 km from Leh and 15 km from Saspol on our new route, we were enthralled and mesmerized by the terrain that we saw. As we sidetracked of the road, we soaked in the view, all 360 degrees of it. On one side we could see the magnificent snow capped Himalayan range, and on the other, a stretch of stone mountains, in hues of brown and burnt sienna each block further streaked in mauves, pinks, greens and more. It was a sight to behold and we silently stood there and soaked it all in. Then, still spellbound, we took pictures which somehow would never convey the emotions generated by the landscape around us. There is no doubt in the fact that every stretch of road and turn exposes God’s handiwork in all its splendour and a million pictures would not do justice to what the eyes can see and convey to those rose bushes in the barren terrain laden with healthy, beautiful and fragrant flowers. These sporadic bouquets added a mystical tinge of color to what the eyes could behold.
The road was decent in comparison to the treacherous track we had traversed, coming up to Leh. I took over the wheel from Nisheeth at around 12.30. We crossed several army battalions and Border Police posts where TCP’s were placed for security reasons in this sensitive and porous area lining the borders.
Tip: It is advisable to take a Tourist permit from Leh when traveling on unconventional routes as we had taken.
We climbed up and down several mountains and kept marveling at the sudden change of terrain every few minutes. There were stretches of emerald green crops step farmed and patches of brilliant yellow mustard which looked refreshingly wonderful too.
At around 2 pm, after having covered 110 kms, I handed the wheel to Shekhar at a place called Skurbachan, just after Dunkar village. By now our appetites were also getting the better of us and we stopped at some small villages to check out some eating place. At a village called Alchani, we stopped again and were told to go further to the next village as it was touching 3 pm. However we spotted some bananas at the shop, we stopped to ask and decided to buy some to at least get a filler snack. The bananas were more than welcome as we were famished and more so because we bought them at Rs 60/- a dozen!
The next village was encouraging as we were directed to a roadside place run by a family with two tables in a small but warm surroundings. The place was right next to a Hydro electric dam project up stream and as we went over a bridge next to the restaurant we saw an incredible sight…..the merging or sangam of two rivers, the Indus and the Zanskar.
The restaurant had momo’s on their limited menu and our mouths watered at the thought. Our joy, however was short lived when the lady who ran the place, told us, she was sold out. But seeing our plight she offered to give us a Maggi masala concoction with tomatoes and onions, followed by some well brewed tea. We were satiated and on our way again at 3.45 pm. Phone signals were non existent, with BSNL waking up to connectivity, here and there. We were now about 70 odd kms from Kargil and still waiting for a Hotel confirmation. At around 4 pm, with Vijay now at the wheel, as we crossed some more fascinating vistas of the Himalayas at 4000 meters, BSNL started to appear. We checked about our Hotel booking and were told there was no room available in Kargil for the night. Vijay then made some calls to Srinagar to get some alternative options and we managed to get a guest house accommodation with meal service and this was a big relief.
As we approached Kargil, the road deteriorated and despite the fancy claims of BRO and BEACON, the Border Road Organizers and contractors, the condition was deplorable. We finally made it to Kargil at around 7 pm after refueling on the outskirts and moved to the guest house. We enquired about the road conditions and were surprised to hear that there was a fixed time for traffic to be released from Drass, for Sonamarg which incidentally was 4 am tomorrow. Kargil to Drass was a two hour drive which meant we had to leave at 2 am or so. We had little choice since the later we left, the more the chances of our getting stuck behind heavy vehicle traffic. This can be very painful on a single track road such as the one between Drass and Sonamarg.
After a hearty meal of Chicken, rice, vegetables and daal, we turned in early only to be up at 1.30 am.
Day 10. Homeward Bound. Disappointed that Manali was closed
24th May 2010, Sunday.
Route : Leh to Kargil.
It was a short and sweet end to our short stay at Leh. Having lost two and a half days waiting at Sonamarg our options in Leh were cut short drastically. The Manali route being closed due to inclement weather was a dampener, as I had mentioned earlier and our side trips to Khardungla Pass and Tso Moriri had to be abandoned due to bad weather but we had been fortunate as Changla was closed soon after we came through. Both Pangong and other locations to sights around were cut off as well. We tried to extend our stay to catch up with what we could not cover but no rooms were available anywhere. Having said our goodbyes to our spouses who left at 9am, after a hearty breakfast together, we also left for Kargil.
To make a change in our route to Kargil, we opted for another route via Batalik along the Indus river. Our first concern was to cross the Dzo Zila pass and reach Sonamarg. Moreover we did not have a Hotel booking at Kargil and Shekhar had made some calls to get one. We had to wait, for the same to be confirmed.
It was a wonderful sunny day and the first stretch out of Leh had Nisheeth on the wheel. The roads leading us out were four laned flatland as mentioned before and we stopped a half hour later at the famed ‘Magnetic Hill’ where gravity is defied. A square which is painted on the middle of the highway marks the spot where, if one were to leave the car/vehicle in neutral, would experience a movement UPWARDS on the incline, defying gravity! We did just that but not before placing a half full bottle of water on the square to confirm that the ‘incline’ was not an optical illusion. Our Fortuner touched a speed of 60 km as we rolled on to the incline and as the road dipped, we sped. It was a unique experience alright.
Just a few kilometers on to the Batalik route, we noticed a cluster of rock formations on our right which glistened in the sun. These were obviously geological marvels, looking polished and lacquered and again a deft display of God’s artistic prowess. Soon after, 45 km from Leh and 15 km from Saspol on our new route, we were enthralled and mesmerized by the terrain that we saw. As we sidetracked of the road, we soaked in the view, all 360 degrees of it. On one side we could see the magnificent snow capped Himalayan range, and on the other, a stretch of stone mountains, in hues of brown and burnt sienna each block further streaked in mauves, pinks, greens and more. It was a sight to behold and we silently stood there and soaked it all in. Then, still spellbound, we took pictures which somehow would never convey the emotions generated by the landscape around us. There is no doubt in the fact that every stretch of road and turn exposes God’s handiwork in all its splendour and a million pictures would not do justice to what the eyes can see and convey to those rose bushes in the barren terrain laden with healthy, beautiful and fragrant flowers. These sporadic bouquets added a mystical tinge of color to what the eyes could behold.
The road was decent in comparison to the treacherous track we had traversed, coming up to Leh. I took over the wheel from Nisheeth at around 12.30. We crossed several army battalions and Border Police posts where TCP’s were placed for security reasons in this sensitive and porous area lining the borders.
Tip: It is advisable to take a Tourist permit from Leh when traveling on unconventional routes as we had taken.
We climbed up and down several mountains and kept marveling at the sudden change of terrain every few minutes. There were stretches of emerald green crops step farmed and patches of brilliant yellow mustard which looked refreshingly wonderful too.
At around 2 pm, after having covered 110 kms, I handed the wheel to Shekhar at a place called Skurbachan, just after Dunkar village. By now our appetites were also getting the better of us and we stopped at some small villages to check out some eating place. At a village called Alchani, we stopped again and were told to go further to the next village as it was touching 3 pm. However we spotted some bananas at the shop, we stopped to ask and decided to buy some to at least get a filler snack. The bananas were more than welcome as we were famished and more so because we bought them at Rs 60/- a dozen!
The next village was encouraging as we were directed to a roadside place run by a family with two tables in a small but warm surroundings. The place was right next to a Hydro electric dam project up stream and as we went over a bridge next to the restaurant we saw an incredible sight…..the merging or sangam of two rivers, the Indus and the Zanskar.
The restaurant had momo’s on their limited menu and our mouths watered at the thought. Our joy, however was short lived when the lady who ran the place, told us, she was sold out. But seeing our plight she offered to give us a Maggi masala concoction with tomatoes and onions, followed by some well brewed tea. We were satiated and on our way again at 3.45 pm. Phone signals were non existent, with BSNL waking up to connectivity, here and there. We were now about 70 odd kms from Kargil and still waiting for a Hotel confirmation. At around 4 pm, with Vijay now at the wheel, as we crossed some more fascinating vistas of the Himalayas at 4000 meters, BSNL started to appear. We checked about our Hotel booking and were told there was no room available in Kargil for the night. Vijay then made some calls to Srinagar to get some alternative options and we managed to get a guest house accommodation with meal service and this was a big relief.
As we approached Kargil, the road deteriorated and despite the fancy claims of BRO and BEACON, the Border Road Organizers and contractors, the condition was deplorable. We finally made it to Kargil at around 7 pm after refueling on the outskirts and moved to the guest house. We enquired about the road conditions and were surprised to hear that there was a fixed time for traffic to be released from Drass, for Sonamarg which incidentally was 4 am tomorrow. Kargil to Drass was a two hour drive which meant we had to leave at 2 am or so. We had little choice since the later we left, the more the chances of our getting stuck behind heavy vehicle traffic. This can be very painful on a single track road such as the one between Drass and Sonamarg.
After a hearty meal of Chicken, rice, vegetables and daal, we turned in early only to be up at 1.30 am.
Snow-clad Fortuner
Sheep, snow, brook
Pangong in the morn
Pangong Lake with its pristine blue colour
On the way to Pangong
Hmm.....
Inside Leh City Palace Temple
The Indus
A beautiful patch of water on the way back to Leh
Thicksey Monastery
Alchi- Ladakh's oldest monastery, built in 1100 AD
A view of the Indus from Alchi Monastery
Lamayuru Monastery
Stuck in an army convoy on the way to Lamayuru
Moonscape at Lamayuru- a 100 km or so from Leh
Temple at Likir Monastery
A statue of Buddha at Likir Monastery
Confluence of rivers Indus and Zanskar
Friday, May 28, 2010
Day 8 and 9. Mesmerized and Floored by God's Artistry....A truly unforgettable experience!
TOYOTA Leh Jayenge
Day 8 and 9. The Rest of it.
A Truly Unforgettable Experience
22nd and 23rd May 2010, Saturday and Sunday.
Place : Pangong and Leh
Sorry for the gap in the post but had been totally disconnected at Pangong and have been on the move since, with timings that were crazy and locations that did not allow me to use the Internet.
Nonetheless, to continue from where I left off.
After the forced refuge from the sudden change in weather, while we were soaking in the Pangong views, we settled down with some amazing tea and pakoras. The Dining hall in the tent was cozy and the weather improved with the winds receding. The temperature however was close to 3 degrees Celcius and the wind chill made it feel like -2 degrees C.
We somehow made it to our tents to freshen up and settle down. There was no water at that time and what had been provided in buckets was bone chilling. Having said that, the spirits were high and with spouses and friends who had flown all the way from Lucknow to cheer our adventurous effort, had us in good spirits.
We headed back to the Dining tent and cozied up to enjoy some drinks and snacks. Dinner was about to be served, and we decided to start a game of Antakshar. The Leh Jayenge team with the rest. It was us five ( including Jayant, from Lucknow) against the 7 ladies. For some strange reason, N.K chose to be a fence sitter and was neither here nor there! While he took his time to figure things out, we began and were shooting songs in response, quite easily. V.S and J.K being our star singers. When things had started to warm up, some more residents of the camp walked in to join us. They were from Delhi, Gujrat and Maharashtra and we all introduced ourselves. The ladies ( about 6 of them) outnumbered us as only two men from their group came over to our side. The three Gujrati girls however were just too good and we were playing catch up now. What followed was a medley with quips and remarks that had us all in splits. We finally gave up as the ladies deserved to win and dinner was announced. It was fun while it lasted.
The dinner was simple but very camp like and we were hungry. After dinner again, since it was too cold to do anything, we just continued with some request numbers for the start singers to sing and they did so with élan. It was getting late so we bade good night to each other and with most of us not having the courage to change or get out of whatever warm stuff we were wearing, slept as we were as the cold breeze rattled our tents and the wind whistled in through the crevices and slits in the tent. It was an enjoyable though not very comfortable experience, but we slept the night away.
Dawn in these parts is early and at 5.30, heads peered out of some tents to see the magical sunrise followed by the changing colors of the lake as the suns rays danced on the terrain and the lake. Those who captured all this on camera as we did, cannot possibly capture the emotions generated by God’s canvas of creation that we all experienced. It was truly breathtaking and an experience none of us will ever forget.
The weather was perfect and the sun shone bright. We had planned to leave by 9 am after breakfast and tea and we did, since bathing in these conditions was out. We took some packed lunch boxes and all other residents also ready to say good bye to this glorious destination.
The convoy, lead by the Fortuner left and were again witness to the awesome terrain which we traversed back. Less than a couple hours later we were stopped by the TCP at Tangsey, having been told that Changla Pass which we had to negotiate and had done yesterday, was blocked due to heavy snow which had fallen early morning. The pass was a few kilometers from Tangsey so we anxiously waited, with many others. The weather was turning bad abut soon the sun was up again bringing some relief.
Two hours later they let us go and sure enough, in a few minutes the Fortuner had successfully crossed the snow bound patch. The other vehicles following us including the ones with our spouses and friends, stalled as one of them had started to slip in the fresh and soft snow. However with the help of some other taxi drivers who were stuck behind us, we heaved and pushed the vehicle out and were soon at Changla Pass again. Thereafter the path was snow free so we moved on. Late in the evening we were back at the comfortable Grand Dragon Hotel and after a long shower, assembled in the lounge common to our floor, to share the day’s experiences. N.K as usual was being naughty and turned up with a part of a trouser leg missing! After the laugh riot and some drinks and snacks, we headed for the dining room to have the buffet dinner laid out for us. Food was average and we were all tired and hungry. The next morning we all had to leave. Our spouses for Delhi by air and we on our Fortuner, The Manali route being closed ( which was a terrible blow and disappointing), we decided to take a route via Kargil, Drass, Srinagar, Pathankot, Chandigarh, Hodal and back, in 5 days. We said our good byes and were on our way, having tanked up. We had to reach Kargil by sun down as we intended to take an alternate route from the one taken on our way up.
It was a nice bright sunny day and as we checked the average Diesel consumption of our vehicle it turned out that we were maintaining an average of between 8 and 9 km/liter. This was contrary to advice from leh veterans who claimed that the rarified air increases consumption of Diesel substantially. Maybe our car got gradually acclimatized too…………just as we did!!!!!!! We were just hoping that the roads have been cleared for traffic and we got the news from the local Taxi stands nearby, that the route had been open so we rushed on our way.
In the meanwhile with N.K’s spouse overly concerned over his well being for the rest of the trip, asked us to look after him, and V.S. volunteered. So while V.S took over chaperoning duties for N.K. and Shekhar for V.S, I was left holding the laptop so I could write all about this. More later as we progress.
Till then, bear with me as I have some interesting side shows to talk about. Day 10 had begun.
Day 8 and 9. The Rest of it.
A Truly Unforgettable Experience
22nd and 23rd May 2010, Saturday and Sunday.
Place : Pangong and Leh
Sorry for the gap in the post but had been totally disconnected at Pangong and have been on the move since, with timings that were crazy and locations that did not allow me to use the Internet.
Nonetheless, to continue from where I left off.
After the forced refuge from the sudden change in weather, while we were soaking in the Pangong views, we settled down with some amazing tea and pakoras. The Dining hall in the tent was cozy and the weather improved with the winds receding. The temperature however was close to 3 degrees Celcius and the wind chill made it feel like -2 degrees C.
We somehow made it to our tents to freshen up and settle down. There was no water at that time and what had been provided in buckets was bone chilling. Having said that, the spirits were high and with spouses and friends who had flown all the way from Lucknow to cheer our adventurous effort, had us in good spirits.
We headed back to the Dining tent and cozied up to enjoy some drinks and snacks. Dinner was about to be served, and we decided to start a game of Antakshar. The Leh Jayenge team with the rest. It was us five ( including Jayant, from Lucknow) against the 7 ladies. For some strange reason, N.K chose to be a fence sitter and was neither here nor there! While he took his time to figure things out, we began and were shooting songs in response, quite easily. V.S and J.K being our star singers. When things had started to warm up, some more residents of the camp walked in to join us. They were from Delhi, Gujrat and Maharashtra and we all introduced ourselves. The ladies ( about 6 of them) outnumbered us as only two men from their group came over to our side. The three Gujrati girls however were just too good and we were playing catch up now. What followed was a medley with quips and remarks that had us all in splits. We finally gave up as the ladies deserved to win and dinner was announced. It was fun while it lasted.
The dinner was simple but very camp like and we were hungry. After dinner again, since it was too cold to do anything, we just continued with some request numbers for the start singers to sing and they did so with élan. It was getting late so we bade good night to each other and with most of us not having the courage to change or get out of whatever warm stuff we were wearing, slept as we were as the cold breeze rattled our tents and the wind whistled in through the crevices and slits in the tent. It was an enjoyable though not very comfortable experience, but we slept the night away.
Dawn in these parts is early and at 5.30, heads peered out of some tents to see the magical sunrise followed by the changing colors of the lake as the suns rays danced on the terrain and the lake. Those who captured all this on camera as we did, cannot possibly capture the emotions generated by God’s canvas of creation that we all experienced. It was truly breathtaking and an experience none of us will ever forget.
The weather was perfect and the sun shone bright. We had planned to leave by 9 am after breakfast and tea and we did, since bathing in these conditions was out. We took some packed lunch boxes and all other residents also ready to say good bye to this glorious destination.
The convoy, lead by the Fortuner left and were again witness to the awesome terrain which we traversed back. Less than a couple hours later we were stopped by the TCP at Tangsey, having been told that Changla Pass which we had to negotiate and had done yesterday, was blocked due to heavy snow which had fallen early morning. The pass was a few kilometers from Tangsey so we anxiously waited, with many others. The weather was turning bad abut soon the sun was up again bringing some relief.
Two hours later they let us go and sure enough, in a few minutes the Fortuner had successfully crossed the snow bound patch. The other vehicles following us including the ones with our spouses and friends, stalled as one of them had started to slip in the fresh and soft snow. However with the help of some other taxi drivers who were stuck behind us, we heaved and pushed the vehicle out and were soon at Changla Pass again. Thereafter the path was snow free so we moved on. Late in the evening we were back at the comfortable Grand Dragon Hotel and after a long shower, assembled in the lounge common to our floor, to share the day’s experiences. N.K as usual was being naughty and turned up with a part of a trouser leg missing! After the laugh riot and some drinks and snacks, we headed for the dining room to have the buffet dinner laid out for us. Food was average and we were all tired and hungry. The next morning we all had to leave. Our spouses for Delhi by air and we on our Fortuner, The Manali route being closed ( which was a terrible blow and disappointing), we decided to take a route via Kargil, Drass, Srinagar, Pathankot, Chandigarh, Hodal and back, in 5 days. We said our good byes and were on our way, having tanked up. We had to reach Kargil by sun down as we intended to take an alternate route from the one taken on our way up.
It was a nice bright sunny day and as we checked the average Diesel consumption of our vehicle it turned out that we were maintaining an average of between 8 and 9 km/liter. This was contrary to advice from leh veterans who claimed that the rarified air increases consumption of Diesel substantially. Maybe our car got gradually acclimatized too…………just as we did!!!!!!! We were just hoping that the roads have been cleared for traffic and we got the news from the local Taxi stands nearby, that the route had been open so we rushed on our way.
In the meanwhile with N.K’s spouse overly concerned over his well being for the rest of the trip, asked us to look after him, and V.S. volunteered. So while V.S took over chaperoning duties for N.K. and Shekhar for V.S, I was left holding the laptop so I could write all about this. More later as we progress.
Till then, bear with me as I have some interesting side shows to talk about. Day 10 had begun.
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Day 8. Romancing the Pangong Tso .........and the Spouses!
TOYOTA Leh Jayenge
Day 8.
Romancing Pangong Tso ( Lake)………and the Spouses
22nd and 23rd May 2010, Saturday and Sunday.
Place : Leh-Pangong-Leh
Hey guys, its good to be back and communicado. Our arrival at Leh early in the morning was a reunion of sorts with the painful wait at Sonamarg. We all knocked on the rooms of our respective spouses and yelled ‘Tea madam, room service’. At 5 am this would have been normally an irritating call so we were fortunate the calls were answered with warm welcome hugs, except Vijay who got a curt ‘ I don’t want tea at this time’! But on second thoughts he got his welcome hug too!
After a much needed three hours of sleep, and a hearty breakfast we were all set to keep our date with Pangong Tso ( lake) the highest salt water lake which stretches for 135 kms, a third of which is in India and the rest in China. Two Taxis and our Fortuner with its mud pack still intact and purring like a dream headed for Pangong at 11.30 am. The route was via Durbuk, ChangLa ( Pass), Tangsey. A total distance of 150 kms, one way. Having heard so much about this one of a kind destination and seen a glimpse of this nature’s marvel in the movie ‘3 Idiots’, we were eager to get there asap.
None of us fortunately felt any altitude related symptoms as we had been religiously taking our ‘ Diamox’ and of course acclimatizing as we ascended. The unscheduled stay at Sonamarg at 2950 meters for two and a half days, perhaps helped.
It was a beautiful and sunny day, around 17 degrees and sunny. Sandwiches were packed and the convoy of three vehicles stopped at a TCP ( Tourist Check post) to log our departure. The gentleman at the post insisted that we must have chains as there was likely to be fresh snow at Changla Pass at over 5300 meters. I was driving the Fortuner on this leg and insisted that we be allowed as we had a all time four wheel drive with options for an additional low and high 4 WD. Somehow he allowed us through, though reluctantly.
The terrain to Changla was a combination of rubble mountains, barren glory of the flatlands, snow capped Himalayas as a backdrop and the ever changing colours of the slate, stone and mineral rich mountains. The soil that was gravel like suddenly changed to very fine and soft sand and back again. One could only marvel at natures bounty that was strewn around in its opulence.
Two hours later we stopped just past Durbuk for a photo session with the spouses. We were climbing now and the drive was getting more interesting and the weather colder. An hour later we were at the third highest pass in the world, Changla, at 5380 meters, surrounded by snow. The temperature was 3 degrees Celcius so we had enough time for a 10 minute photo session before we were on our way, through snow lined roads, gleaming and stark white on all sides. Such conditions necessitate the need to wear UV protection eyewear.
The Fortuner just didn’t feel a thing. At any point and had covered every terrain with consummate ease.
Just 10 odd kilometers and downhill, we crossed the village of Tangsey after negotiating another TCP. An hour later, the road suddenly roughened and single tracked. The terrain became sandy again and the mountains changed colours again. Just then we got a distant glimpse of Pangong lake. The view was truly mesmerizing with a turquoise patch that is so Pangong.
Ten minutes later we were there……..truly breathless at a height of 4000 meters plus, watching shades of Turquoise and pink changing with the movement of the sun’s rays and the clouds. Words cannot describe the expanse of this 135 km long wonder of the world. The salt water lake, the highest in the world, had the clearest blue water I have ever seen. The surrounding terrain just enhanced the magnificence that is Pangong!
The approach to our camp, the Watermark camp was a rocky one as there was really no road and we had to traverse more than a km of pebbled and stones, almost like going over a river bed. The camp, on the banks of Pangong lake was more than picturesque and we just devoured the surroundings in every possible way with whatever equipment we had. It was too good to be true! It was almost sunset now and we couldn’t take our eyes off the view, literally, with popping eyeballs.
While we all sat on the banks of the lake, we saw a cloud of snow building up at one end. A snow blizzard was almost in the offing and the wind picked up speed, blowing our headgear away and sending a chill up our spines. We quickly headed back to the safety of our tents. As the evening set in, we decided to freshen up and meet again in the Dining area ( also a tent of course) for hot chai and pakoras!
Am signing off for the day and will get back with more as I may be disconnected from the Internet for a day or two, while on the move.
Till then savour the pictures that will keep you abreast with all that’s happening with us! Loving every minute!
Day 8.
Romancing Pangong Tso ( Lake)………and the Spouses
22nd and 23rd May 2010, Saturday and Sunday.
Place : Leh-Pangong-Leh
Hey guys, its good to be back and communicado. Our arrival at Leh early in the morning was a reunion of sorts with the painful wait at Sonamarg. We all knocked on the rooms of our respective spouses and yelled ‘Tea madam, room service’. At 5 am this would have been normally an irritating call so we were fortunate the calls were answered with warm welcome hugs, except Vijay who got a curt ‘ I don’t want tea at this time’! But on second thoughts he got his welcome hug too!
After a much needed three hours of sleep, and a hearty breakfast we were all set to keep our date with Pangong Tso ( lake) the highest salt water lake which stretches for 135 kms, a third of which is in India and the rest in China. Two Taxis and our Fortuner with its mud pack still intact and purring like a dream headed for Pangong at 11.30 am. The route was via Durbuk, ChangLa ( Pass), Tangsey. A total distance of 150 kms, one way. Having heard so much about this one of a kind destination and seen a glimpse of this nature’s marvel in the movie ‘3 Idiots’, we were eager to get there asap.
None of us fortunately felt any altitude related symptoms as we had been religiously taking our ‘ Diamox’ and of course acclimatizing as we ascended. The unscheduled stay at Sonamarg at 2950 meters for two and a half days, perhaps helped.
It was a beautiful and sunny day, around 17 degrees and sunny. Sandwiches were packed and the convoy of three vehicles stopped at a TCP ( Tourist Check post) to log our departure. The gentleman at the post insisted that we must have chains as there was likely to be fresh snow at Changla Pass at over 5300 meters. I was driving the Fortuner on this leg and insisted that we be allowed as we had a all time four wheel drive with options for an additional low and high 4 WD. Somehow he allowed us through, though reluctantly.
The terrain to Changla was a combination of rubble mountains, barren glory of the flatlands, snow capped Himalayas as a backdrop and the ever changing colours of the slate, stone and mineral rich mountains. The soil that was gravel like suddenly changed to very fine and soft sand and back again. One could only marvel at natures bounty that was strewn around in its opulence.
Two hours later we stopped just past Durbuk for a photo session with the spouses. We were climbing now and the drive was getting more interesting and the weather colder. An hour later we were at the third highest pass in the world, Changla, at 5380 meters, surrounded by snow. The temperature was 3 degrees Celcius so we had enough time for a 10 minute photo session before we were on our way, through snow lined roads, gleaming and stark white on all sides. Such conditions necessitate the need to wear UV protection eyewear.
The Fortuner just didn’t feel a thing. At any point and had covered every terrain with consummate ease.
Just 10 odd kilometers and downhill, we crossed the village of Tangsey after negotiating another TCP. An hour later, the road suddenly roughened and single tracked. The terrain became sandy again and the mountains changed colours again. Just then we got a distant glimpse of Pangong lake. The view was truly mesmerizing with a turquoise patch that is so Pangong.
Ten minutes later we were there……..truly breathless at a height of 4000 meters plus, watching shades of Turquoise and pink changing with the movement of the sun’s rays and the clouds. Words cannot describe the expanse of this 135 km long wonder of the world. The salt water lake, the highest in the world, had the clearest blue water I have ever seen. The surrounding terrain just enhanced the magnificence that is Pangong!
The approach to our camp, the Watermark camp was a rocky one as there was really no road and we had to traverse more than a km of pebbled and stones, almost like going over a river bed. The camp, on the banks of Pangong lake was more than picturesque and we just devoured the surroundings in every possible way with whatever equipment we had. It was too good to be true! It was almost sunset now and we couldn’t take our eyes off the view, literally, with popping eyeballs.
While we all sat on the banks of the lake, we saw a cloud of snow building up at one end. A snow blizzard was almost in the offing and the wind picked up speed, blowing our headgear away and sending a chill up our spines. We quickly headed back to the safety of our tents. As the evening set in, we decided to freshen up and meet again in the Dining area ( also a tent of course) for hot chai and pakoras!
Am signing off for the day and will get back with more as I may be disconnected from the Internet for a day or two, while on the move.
Till then savour the pictures that will keep you abreast with all that’s happening with us! Loving every minute!
Friday, May 21, 2010
Day 7. The waiting prolongs but we manage to get away!
TOYOTA Leh Jayenge
Day 7.
The pain of waiting……..again. And the rough ride to Leh.
21st May 2010, Friday
Place : Leh
The excruciating pain of waiting was now getting to us and while we did our best to be cheerful seeing the bright sunny morning, we went through the motions of tea, breakfast and packing up, said our thank you’s to the CRPF incharge and as per schedule lined up outside the Poilce Post in Sonamarg.
It was an amazing sight around the entire little one street township. There were hundreds of buses lined up, taxis with anxious passengers, the restaurants were jammed with tourists trying to grab a quick bite and a frenzy of activity was visible, since the news of the roads opening finally seemed to be a reality. There was some movement in the hundreds of trucks who had been waiting for the last five days which was a positive sign. However ironically, the SHO was missing again. We waited patiently outside his office hoping there would be some communication but that wasn’t to be. The wait continued.
We then saw a convoy of official cars whiz past and the SHO was accompanying them. Apparently some minister who had woken up to the woes of the stranded thousands of tourists was going to inspect the road ahead before traffic could be released.
The wind had picked up speed by now and we had no choice but to breathe in all the diesel fumes and the dust being raised by vehicles preparing to depart. It was noon and we were feeling hungry. There was no news whatsoever yet and we got through to some friends in the Government who in turn informed us that the likely time for being allowed to go ahead was 2 pm.
We decided to have a quick bite in a Punjabi Dhaba, comprising of some chola and roti and continued our patient wait outside the police post. We got through to the SHO who was unreachable till now, and he confirmed that the likely time would be 2 pm and we should stay put since he was returning with the minister. Having little choice we just waited in the car, waiting for something to happen.
The Drive from Sonamarg to Leh, via Kargil:
All of a sudden at around 2 pm, there was a rush of vehicles driving out of Sonamarg apparently based on info that the road was open to pass through.
A tip here. If roads are blocked and you want accurate information about the road conditions, a local Taxi driver is your best bet. They have their own network of Taxi drivers giving them updated info on road conditions. In case you are driving at night on these unpredictable and treacherous tracks, keep behind a Taxi driver and you will arrive in good time and safe.
Another tip. Since you will be climbing up several hundred meters in quick time, you need to take diuretics an hour before you start the drive. Or even a few hours before. Diamox is the commonly used tablet you can have everyday if you’re going to spend time at heights in the vicinity of 4000 meters and above. For traveling on the mountainous roads with repetitive bends, and to avoid travel sickness thereof, one can take 2 or 3 Avomines a day, depending on the terrain you cover. As you ascend, you do acclimatize gradually but the heavy headedness can occur. The degree of the same could vary from person to person. The same is recommended for those who also fly into places like Leh at heights in excess of 4000 meters.
Leg 1. Sonamarg to Kargil, a destination of around 130 km. Shekhar at the wheel:
We departed at 2.10 and crawled at a snails pace with the roads hardly existent. What we went through was slushy, freshly cleared of landslide rubble roads, severely undulating. It took us an hour to traverse 10 odd kilometers on a single track road in a convoy of several hundred vehicles, who had just left Sonamarg. We were informed that traffic from Kargil usually, under normal conditions is released everyday at 4 am and from Sonamarg to Kargil at 8 am. Friday usually is the closed day for maintenance. However in our case, since the roads were closed for 5 days, this Friday we were allowed to pass through.
We passed stretches of road that were cut through glaciers of ice and a vista of white snow and grey slate, peppered with black patches of rock. The sights were mesmerizing to say the least. Temperatures were around 9 deg Celcius at 4 pm in the afternoon. The height around 3500 meters for a fair stretch till Matiyan at around 3300 meters.
38 kms from Sonamarg and about 2 kms before a little village called Matiyan, we ran into a massive traffic jam caused by unruly merging of incoming traffic from Kargil. A result of the 5 days of stalling at both ends. While stalled, we were informed by a kind following driver that we had a flat. Fortunately we veered off the road on to a soft clearance and with team effort managed to replace the huge Dunlop tyre in 10 minutes. Despite having to remove the bags over the tool storage area. A recommendation to Toyota. We need better quality tyres on a an SUV like the Fortuner. It may be matter of chance but none of the other brands of MPV’s, SUV’s Maruti low end models etc, seemed to be stranded en route. Another recommendation is for the quality of headlights. The light though adequate belies the USP of the car.
Leg 1. Matityan to Kargil via Drass. 22 km.
V.S at the Wheel. Time 6.00 pm
We drove on past Matiyan on to another treacherous and undulated stretch of road to Drass which took us an hour an thirty minutes. Drove alongside the Drass river. Kargil was next, about 57 Km ahead. Its dark now so I quit taking up the arduous task of being thrown around in the backseat with the laptop in the undulating road conditions. Will update the rest tomorrow.
Am back again!
The traffic was still heavy on the route to Drass with Vijay at the wheel and the sun started to set. Drass is a small village which had a lot of end of the day activity as we passed it. Shekhar and me thought we saw some boiled eggs but the narrowness of the main street would not allow us to stop and look. So on we went. We crossed some rural outskirts of Drass and road quality was good. Whatever little we did get to see was breathtaking and different from what we had viewed earlier. However as it turned close to dark we could only got a faint idea about the surrounding terrain and the road ahead. But the half moon helped a bit by showering its moonbeams on the Drass river and the glistening effect was romantic and dreamy, to say the least. With the usual ‘relief’ breaks more on account of Nisheeth, and music changing genres we saw the Drass river streaming and gushing along. We also passed the sign which said that we were in view of Pakistani outposts and towers and should not stop at any time. So we pegged along. We truly missed the beauty of the landscape along this route and as it turned dark, we felt deprived of it due to our rescheduled late departure from Sonamarg. In fact we had traveled alongside the Jhelum, The Tawi, the Sind, the Drass and the Indus rivers and each terrain was distinctively different yet breathtaking. We hoped to reach Kargil just before 9 pm so at the first opportunity of getting the BSNL signal, the only that worked amongst us, called the Kargil agent to book us rooms for the night as there was no way we could reach Leh in good time as the distance from Kargil to Leh was around 235 Km and the estimated travel time 8 hours if driving conditions were anywhere near decent. We continued to pass and be passed by familiar cars who were all coming from Sonamarg after being stranded.
We reached Kargil at around 8.45 and tanked up at the pump on the outskirts on the Kargil Leh route. Just reaching this gas station, about a kilometer out of Kargil city center was an experience as the road was dug up completely for repairs, loose mud and stones on the surface with clouds of dust being raised behind each passing vehicle. Just across was a Tyre repair shop which surprisingly was open at that time. Fortunately though not surprisingly, he was well equipped to handle a tubeless tyre repair job although Toyota had provided us with a complete repair kit as well as trained us to do the job. However in the interest of saving time and since it was getting cold, we got the repair shop to do a quick and good job for just Rs 50/-.
Just then the bombshell. With the exodus out of Sonamarg, the Hotels in Kargil were sold out and the agent called to say there was nothing he could do. It was just after 9 pm we had two options.
Either to spend the night in the car or take the road ahead to Leh, all of the 235 Km. 8 hours of night driving. We put that to vote and we agreed that there was hardly anything to choose from and agreed to drive on. And we were famished.
We asked the tyre repair shop how the road ahead was and he told us that quite a bit of it was like the run down ramshackle tack we had just come on! We just looked at each other, smiled and got into the car, headed for Leh. Nisheeth was at the wheel and would do so for the next 55 km.
Leg 2: Kargil to Leh.
First 55 Km, Nisheeth at the Wheel.
It was around 9.15 pm and we were on our way. We were told that a Dhaba was on the route, just outside Kargil so we thought we would stop for a bite and just go on, non stop.
The road was in a bad shape, as informed and Nisheeth was helping us build up an appetite with a ‘rocking’ time finding potholes with diligent consistency. However that was not to be. We were famished. We had traveled awful roads and a wretched track in the first hour, without finding any useful place to eat. The road was climbing and with unpredictable twists and turns. At some points we were unable to figure out where really the road was. At 10.50 we spotted a dhaba with some traffic and stopped immediately. The restaurant was busy but almost closing. All he had was rajma and rice and some dal. We could have eaten anything at that time so asked for it, pronto. The owner told us that electricity here went of at 11 pm sharp so we had precisely 5 minutes to eat. How on earth did he expect that when he hadn’t yet even served the food! Food was served though in a record 5 minutes, looked inviting and before we had two bites, the lights were out. Our torch was the savior and with a 10 minute torchlight dinner break, and we were on our way again.
The route we had chosen was the usual NH1A to Leh but it was everything but a highway. We stopped an hour later and I took the wheel. It was around midnight. The traffic was intermittent but still there. Perhaps as a result of all the anxious tourists wanting to get to Leh like all of us. Also because Kargil was not ‘accommodating’ enough. The landscape and surroundings had paled into insignificance as one of the most treacherous parts of this leg had me glued to the road following the headlights and looking for the non existent road. The precipice on the side was perhaps thousands of meters. The embankments were missing except on the curves and the road very very winding. We crossed village after village in pitch darkness and the temperature touched 0 degrees as we climbed to almost 5000 meters. The only blessing was that since the eerie height was disguised by the darkness, we were not affected by the same. Moreover the thin traffic at that hour most of it unidirectional was a big help in maintaining a reasonable speed. While Shekhar and Nisheeth tried to catch a nap in the back seat, Vijay who was next to me, also followed the headlights with his heart in his mouth.
After almost 3 hours of crazy driving we descended downhill onto some flat land and stopped at a Tourist check post. Once in Ladakh, it is a must to carry your personal ID and Drivers license.
I handed over the wheel to Shekhar with about 120 kms to go. We were pleasantly surprised by the sporadic 4 lane highway stretches and sudden vanishing of the road, which was affected by either repair work or had been affected by landslides. An hour and a half after Shekhar took over, we stopped to relieve ourselves in freezing conditions. Vijay took over the wheel on the last stretch and we had made very good time. About half an hour later, about 30 kms from Leh, we saw dawn breaking. Amidst the glorious mountains with fascinating paint brush streaks and snow capped mountains all blending together to make a dreamy horizon we all broke the silence that had been prevailing since the dinner break as our destination was almost there and the rising sun evoking the natural oohs and aaahs! We stopped to take some pictures and hit the by now fairly motorable four lane well metalled highway touching speeds of 130 km/hr.
At 5am we drove into the Grand Dragon, Leh and headed for our respective rooms but not before we surprised our spouses with our unscheduled arrival. It was already the 22nd May and as per a pre-fixed schedule had to leave for Changla and Pangong Tso later in the day. So we just crashed out, travel weary but spirits high, looking forward to what looked like another fascinating part of our trip.
Day 7.
The pain of waiting……..again. And the rough ride to Leh.
21st May 2010, Friday
Place : Leh
The excruciating pain of waiting was now getting to us and while we did our best to be cheerful seeing the bright sunny morning, we went through the motions of tea, breakfast and packing up, said our thank you’s to the CRPF incharge and as per schedule lined up outside the Poilce Post in Sonamarg.
It was an amazing sight around the entire little one street township. There were hundreds of buses lined up, taxis with anxious passengers, the restaurants were jammed with tourists trying to grab a quick bite and a frenzy of activity was visible, since the news of the roads opening finally seemed to be a reality. There was some movement in the hundreds of trucks who had been waiting for the last five days which was a positive sign. However ironically, the SHO was missing again. We waited patiently outside his office hoping there would be some communication but that wasn’t to be. The wait continued.
We then saw a convoy of official cars whiz past and the SHO was accompanying them. Apparently some minister who had woken up to the woes of the stranded thousands of tourists was going to inspect the road ahead before traffic could be released.
The wind had picked up speed by now and we had no choice but to breathe in all the diesel fumes and the dust being raised by vehicles preparing to depart. It was noon and we were feeling hungry. There was no news whatsoever yet and we got through to some friends in the Government who in turn informed us that the likely time for being allowed to go ahead was 2 pm.
We decided to have a quick bite in a Punjabi Dhaba, comprising of some chola and roti and continued our patient wait outside the police post. We got through to the SHO who was unreachable till now, and he confirmed that the likely time would be 2 pm and we should stay put since he was returning with the minister. Having little choice we just waited in the car, waiting for something to happen.
The Drive from Sonamarg to Leh, via Kargil:
All of a sudden at around 2 pm, there was a rush of vehicles driving out of Sonamarg apparently based on info that the road was open to pass through.
A tip here. If roads are blocked and you want accurate information about the road conditions, a local Taxi driver is your best bet. They have their own network of Taxi drivers giving them updated info on road conditions. In case you are driving at night on these unpredictable and treacherous tracks, keep behind a Taxi driver and you will arrive in good time and safe.
Another tip. Since you will be climbing up several hundred meters in quick time, you need to take diuretics an hour before you start the drive. Or even a few hours before. Diamox is the commonly used tablet you can have everyday if you’re going to spend time at heights in the vicinity of 4000 meters and above. For traveling on the mountainous roads with repetitive bends, and to avoid travel sickness thereof, one can take 2 or 3 Avomines a day, depending on the terrain you cover. As you ascend, you do acclimatize gradually but the heavy headedness can occur. The degree of the same could vary from person to person. The same is recommended for those who also fly into places like Leh at heights in excess of 4000 meters.
Leg 1. Sonamarg to Kargil, a destination of around 130 km. Shekhar at the wheel:
We departed at 2.10 and crawled at a snails pace with the roads hardly existent. What we went through was slushy, freshly cleared of landslide rubble roads, severely undulating. It took us an hour to traverse 10 odd kilometers on a single track road in a convoy of several hundred vehicles, who had just left Sonamarg. We were informed that traffic from Kargil usually, under normal conditions is released everyday at 4 am and from Sonamarg to Kargil at 8 am. Friday usually is the closed day for maintenance. However in our case, since the roads were closed for 5 days, this Friday we were allowed to pass through.
We passed stretches of road that were cut through glaciers of ice and a vista of white snow and grey slate, peppered with black patches of rock. The sights were mesmerizing to say the least. Temperatures were around 9 deg Celcius at 4 pm in the afternoon. The height around 3500 meters for a fair stretch till Matiyan at around 3300 meters.
38 kms from Sonamarg and about 2 kms before a little village called Matiyan, we ran into a massive traffic jam caused by unruly merging of incoming traffic from Kargil. A result of the 5 days of stalling at both ends. While stalled, we were informed by a kind following driver that we had a flat. Fortunately we veered off the road on to a soft clearance and with team effort managed to replace the huge Dunlop tyre in 10 minutes. Despite having to remove the bags over the tool storage area. A recommendation to Toyota. We need better quality tyres on a an SUV like the Fortuner. It may be matter of chance but none of the other brands of MPV’s, SUV’s Maruti low end models etc, seemed to be stranded en route. Another recommendation is for the quality of headlights. The light though adequate belies the USP of the car.
Leg 1. Matityan to Kargil via Drass. 22 km.
V.S at the Wheel. Time 6.00 pm
We drove on past Matiyan on to another treacherous and undulated stretch of road to Drass which took us an hour an thirty minutes. Drove alongside the Drass river. Kargil was next, about 57 Km ahead. Its dark now so I quit taking up the arduous task of being thrown around in the backseat with the laptop in the undulating road conditions. Will update the rest tomorrow.
Am back again!
The traffic was still heavy on the route to Drass with Vijay at the wheel and the sun started to set. Drass is a small village which had a lot of end of the day activity as we passed it. Shekhar and me thought we saw some boiled eggs but the narrowness of the main street would not allow us to stop and look. So on we went. We crossed some rural outskirts of Drass and road quality was good. Whatever little we did get to see was breathtaking and different from what we had viewed earlier. However as it turned close to dark we could only got a faint idea about the surrounding terrain and the road ahead. But the half moon helped a bit by showering its moonbeams on the Drass river and the glistening effect was romantic and dreamy, to say the least. With the usual ‘relief’ breaks more on account of Nisheeth, and music changing genres we saw the Drass river streaming and gushing along. We also passed the sign which said that we were in view of Pakistani outposts and towers and should not stop at any time. So we pegged along. We truly missed the beauty of the landscape along this route and as it turned dark, we felt deprived of it due to our rescheduled late departure from Sonamarg. In fact we had traveled alongside the Jhelum, The Tawi, the Sind, the Drass and the Indus rivers and each terrain was distinctively different yet breathtaking. We hoped to reach Kargil just before 9 pm so at the first opportunity of getting the BSNL signal, the only that worked amongst us, called the Kargil agent to book us rooms for the night as there was no way we could reach Leh in good time as the distance from Kargil to Leh was around 235 Km and the estimated travel time 8 hours if driving conditions were anywhere near decent. We continued to pass and be passed by familiar cars who were all coming from Sonamarg after being stranded.
We reached Kargil at around 8.45 and tanked up at the pump on the outskirts on the Kargil Leh route. Just reaching this gas station, about a kilometer out of Kargil city center was an experience as the road was dug up completely for repairs, loose mud and stones on the surface with clouds of dust being raised behind each passing vehicle. Just across was a Tyre repair shop which surprisingly was open at that time. Fortunately though not surprisingly, he was well equipped to handle a tubeless tyre repair job although Toyota had provided us with a complete repair kit as well as trained us to do the job. However in the interest of saving time and since it was getting cold, we got the repair shop to do a quick and good job for just Rs 50/-.
Just then the bombshell. With the exodus out of Sonamarg, the Hotels in Kargil were sold out and the agent called to say there was nothing he could do. It was just after 9 pm we had two options.
Either to spend the night in the car or take the road ahead to Leh, all of the 235 Km. 8 hours of night driving. We put that to vote and we agreed that there was hardly anything to choose from and agreed to drive on. And we were famished.
We asked the tyre repair shop how the road ahead was and he told us that quite a bit of it was like the run down ramshackle tack we had just come on! We just looked at each other, smiled and got into the car, headed for Leh. Nisheeth was at the wheel and would do so for the next 55 km.
Leg 2: Kargil to Leh.
First 55 Km, Nisheeth at the Wheel.
It was around 9.15 pm and we were on our way. We were told that a Dhaba was on the route, just outside Kargil so we thought we would stop for a bite and just go on, non stop.
The road was in a bad shape, as informed and Nisheeth was helping us build up an appetite with a ‘rocking’ time finding potholes with diligent consistency. However that was not to be. We were famished. We had traveled awful roads and a wretched track in the first hour, without finding any useful place to eat. The road was climbing and with unpredictable twists and turns. At some points we were unable to figure out where really the road was. At 10.50 we spotted a dhaba with some traffic and stopped immediately. The restaurant was busy but almost closing. All he had was rajma and rice and some dal. We could have eaten anything at that time so asked for it, pronto. The owner told us that electricity here went of at 11 pm sharp so we had precisely 5 minutes to eat. How on earth did he expect that when he hadn’t yet even served the food! Food was served though in a record 5 minutes, looked inviting and before we had two bites, the lights were out. Our torch was the savior and with a 10 minute torchlight dinner break, and we were on our way again.
The route we had chosen was the usual NH1A to Leh but it was everything but a highway. We stopped an hour later and I took the wheel. It was around midnight. The traffic was intermittent but still there. Perhaps as a result of all the anxious tourists wanting to get to Leh like all of us. Also because Kargil was not ‘accommodating’ enough. The landscape and surroundings had paled into insignificance as one of the most treacherous parts of this leg had me glued to the road following the headlights and looking for the non existent road. The precipice on the side was perhaps thousands of meters. The embankments were missing except on the curves and the road very very winding. We crossed village after village in pitch darkness and the temperature touched 0 degrees as we climbed to almost 5000 meters. The only blessing was that since the eerie height was disguised by the darkness, we were not affected by the same. Moreover the thin traffic at that hour most of it unidirectional was a big help in maintaining a reasonable speed. While Shekhar and Nisheeth tried to catch a nap in the back seat, Vijay who was next to me, also followed the headlights with his heart in his mouth.
After almost 3 hours of crazy driving we descended downhill onto some flat land and stopped at a Tourist check post. Once in Ladakh, it is a must to carry your personal ID and Drivers license.
I handed over the wheel to Shekhar with about 120 kms to go. We were pleasantly surprised by the sporadic 4 lane highway stretches and sudden vanishing of the road, which was affected by either repair work or had been affected by landslides. An hour and a half after Shekhar took over, we stopped to relieve ourselves in freezing conditions. Vijay took over the wheel on the last stretch and we had made very good time. About half an hour later, about 30 kms from Leh, we saw dawn breaking. Amidst the glorious mountains with fascinating paint brush streaks and snow capped mountains all blending together to make a dreamy horizon we all broke the silence that had been prevailing since the dinner break as our destination was almost there and the rising sun evoking the natural oohs and aaahs! We stopped to take some pictures and hit the by now fairly motorable four lane well metalled highway touching speeds of 130 km/hr.
At 5am we drove into the Grand Dragon, Leh and headed for our respective rooms but not before we surprised our spouses with our unscheduled arrival. It was already the 22nd May and as per a pre-fixed schedule had to leave for Changla and Pangong Tso later in the day. So we just crashed out, travel weary but spirits high, looking forward to what looked like another fascinating part of our trip.
Day 6. The Waiting in Sonamarg Continues as do the landslides
TOYOTA Leh Jayenge
Day 6.
The waiting continues, as do the Landslides.
20th May 2010, Thursday
Place : Sonamarg and Gund
The VIP Cottage at Sonamarg was just about good to catch some sleep as we had an early start in mind. We woke up at 7 am, in bright sunshine and a cloudless sky. The caretaker of the cottage served us some decent tea as we enjoyed and soaked the sun in the solitude of the cottage, hoping to be on our way.
At 8 am we called the SHO again, to get an update and he told us that there had been more landslides which had put paid to all the hard work being done at the site of the blockage. The SHO advised us to wait and be around. Thereafter he was unreachable which added to our frustration. The cottage had to be relinquished later in the day and all Hotels were choc a block full. We were in a dilemma and while we simply killed time over breakfast and lunch, we had to pull some strings to get alternative accommodation. Some more strings to get some authentic info on the site. The SSP of Sonamarg was contacted through some senior officers in Srinagar as we were finding it impossible to contact the SHO and our patience was running out. The SSP helped and the SHO got back to us and asked us to come to the police outpost where he sat. It was still touch and go. He told us that there was a likelihood that we may get some clearance news by 5pm so we should hang around. Further landslides were making things difficult, he explained. The system though not responsible for the situation, had its own way of giving information that was supposedly authentic yet unusable.
We again got through to our friends in the Government in Srinagar and tried to work out an alternative accommodation, just in case and managed to get something available at the CRPF base in Gund, about 23 km back, in the direction of Srinagar. As we reached there, we got a call from the SHO that there may be a chance it would open up shortly. We contemplated and felt we could still make it to Kargil by night. We called Delhi to organize accommodation in Kargil. Although the Dy Commandant had arranged for everything and had the rooms ready, we still hoped we could proceed to Kargil and told him we would prefer for some news before we unpacked our bags.
But all this was not to be. By 8 pm, we again met the SHO who informed us that he had visited the site a short while ago and we could not leave till tomorrow in view of prevailing conditions. We were asked to come back to the Police post in the morning again, at 9.30 am. Crestfallen we grabbed some dinner at our favorite Snowland Hotel and headed for the CRPF base again. We reached by 10 and checked into the barrack like rooms. It was like living in a camp except that their guest rooms built on temporary structures had light, some clean beds, and warm quilts. We were tired doing nothing all the day and turned it for the night. The open starlit sky was some consolation that the weather would be clear tomorrow. The awesome foursome bid goodnight and with prayers said, waited for the morning.
In the meanwhile the spouses who were worried and sad we were still stranded made the best of their time in Leh by visiting scenic spots, which we would have otherwise traveled to, with them . But we lay all that in God’s hands and assigned that to his will, and good reasons.
The spirit and enthusiasm was still alive and we were raring to go. The redeeming feature in the past few days in Sonamarg and also enroute was the intrigue about the Fortuner. This was relatively an unknown vehicle in these parts and taxi drivers, youngsters, car lovers and more, kept inquiring about the features, price etc., of this impressive SUV which seemed to turn heads wherever we went.
The Uninor logo also evoked interest as to what it depicted and if at all the same would be available in these parts.
Day 6.
The waiting continues, as do the Landslides.
20th May 2010, Thursday
Place : Sonamarg and Gund
The VIP Cottage at Sonamarg was just about good to catch some sleep as we had an early start in mind. We woke up at 7 am, in bright sunshine and a cloudless sky. The caretaker of the cottage served us some decent tea as we enjoyed and soaked the sun in the solitude of the cottage, hoping to be on our way.
At 8 am we called the SHO again, to get an update and he told us that there had been more landslides which had put paid to all the hard work being done at the site of the blockage. The SHO advised us to wait and be around. Thereafter he was unreachable which added to our frustration. The cottage had to be relinquished later in the day and all Hotels were choc a block full. We were in a dilemma and while we simply killed time over breakfast and lunch, we had to pull some strings to get alternative accommodation. Some more strings to get some authentic info on the site. The SSP of Sonamarg was contacted through some senior officers in Srinagar as we were finding it impossible to contact the SHO and our patience was running out. The SSP helped and the SHO got back to us and asked us to come to the police outpost where he sat. It was still touch and go. He told us that there was a likelihood that we may get some clearance news by 5pm so we should hang around. Further landslides were making things difficult, he explained. The system though not responsible for the situation, had its own way of giving information that was supposedly authentic yet unusable.
We again got through to our friends in the Government in Srinagar and tried to work out an alternative accommodation, just in case and managed to get something available at the CRPF base in Gund, about 23 km back, in the direction of Srinagar. As we reached there, we got a call from the SHO that there may be a chance it would open up shortly. We contemplated and felt we could still make it to Kargil by night. We called Delhi to organize accommodation in Kargil. Although the Dy Commandant had arranged for everything and had the rooms ready, we still hoped we could proceed to Kargil and told him we would prefer for some news before we unpacked our bags.
But all this was not to be. By 8 pm, we again met the SHO who informed us that he had visited the site a short while ago and we could not leave till tomorrow in view of prevailing conditions. We were asked to come back to the Police post in the morning again, at 9.30 am. Crestfallen we grabbed some dinner at our favorite Snowland Hotel and headed for the CRPF base again. We reached by 10 and checked into the barrack like rooms. It was like living in a camp except that their guest rooms built on temporary structures had light, some clean beds, and warm quilts. We were tired doing nothing all the day and turned it for the night. The open starlit sky was some consolation that the weather would be clear tomorrow. The awesome foursome bid goodnight and with prayers said, waited for the morning.
In the meanwhile the spouses who were worried and sad we were still stranded made the best of their time in Leh by visiting scenic spots, which we would have otherwise traveled to, with them . But we lay all that in God’s hands and assigned that to his will, and good reasons.
The spirit and enthusiasm was still alive and we were raring to go. The redeeming feature in the past few days in Sonamarg and also enroute was the intrigue about the Fortuner. This was relatively an unknown vehicle in these parts and taxi drivers, youngsters, car lovers and more, kept inquiring about the features, price etc., of this impressive SUV which seemed to turn heads wherever we went.
The Uninor logo also evoked interest as to what it depicted and if at all the same would be available in these parts.
Day 5. Stranded in Heaven but Loving it!
TOYOTA Leh Jayenge
Day 5.
Stranded in Heaven. On Tenterhooks but loving it!
19th May 2010, Wednesday
Place : Srinagar to Sonamarg (Destined for Kargil but not to be!)
With a late night report of the Drass area still snowed out and infested with landslides due to the incessant rain, we were hopeful that good weather would prevail the next day for making our journey to Kargil possible. Early morning calls were made to the local Traffic Control Police, the Kargil outpost, The Leh Deputy Commandant, to check the situation on ground. The response was positive as work was on to remove the obstructions. The morning did welcome us with bright sunshine which made everyone feel good as this would facilitate faster clearance work.
By now, our respective spouses had also reached Leh, a day before our scheduled arrival, as had been previously planned. An extra day because they needed to acclimatize whereas we would do that naturally as we climbed up. They were also concerned and worried as they had been looking forward to welcoming us when we arrived in Leh and of course enjoy the sights around, with us.
We got some good news about the clearing being possible late afternoon. We enjoyed the breakfast and that comprised of hand tossed omlettes cooked by N.K with his love and culinary skills and then spent time in the bright sunshine in the sprawling garden of our hosts residence, clicking some whacky photographs and savoring their hospitality. At around noon, we heard that there was a likelihood of the passage opening late afternoon so we decided to leave immediately as it would take us 3 hours to get to the location and the hope of passing through immediately, thereby saving precious time.
Saying our goodbyes to the hosts, we hit the road with S.W. at the wheel, and exited Srinagar by traversing the periphery of the Dal lake which simmered in the bright sunshine, with the Four Chinars and the snow capped mountains making the view breathtaking. The meter read 7333 km.
Leg 1. At the Wheel, S.W.
The narrow winding streets of Srinagar were congested and it was a pity that with the kind of flow and tourism, almost around the year, the Government had done little to make the exit route more convenient. We took the Dragryung Road to Highway NH1D which goes all the way to Leh.
The drive was memorable with the Sind river on one side and the panoramic snowcapped mountains forming the backdrop. The road was a dual carriage, with broken patches caused by the vagaries of recent bad weather. An hour and a half away from Srinagar, we stopped at a roadside Dhaba at Kangan Saran, for some Aloo parathas and Onion Pakoras. Onion Pakoras seem to be a specialty and much in demand menu option almost at every dhaba. The Sind was flowing by the dhaba and eating here, sitting outside was something else. We had a great system for sharing our expenses. We had entrusted N.K with the responsibility of paying for all expenses enroute and had given him an equal share of money to start with. This went into an envelop which he carried all the time
( Our UBL or Union Bank of Lefafa) and this became our constant ATM.
Leg 2. V.S at the Wheel.
We had time on hand so we decided to stop at another spot by the gushing and frothing Sind to click some pictures on the rocks close to the bank of the river, just alongside the highway.
We crossed Sonamarg and 10 km on, we were stopped as there had been another landslide. This was much smaller in comparison and was being cleared. We were by now trying to figure things out by calling various people who would give us an accurate assessment of the situation. All our phones, except V.S with a BSNL connection, were not working now. No Vodafone, no Tata Indicom. Wonder what happened to the Zoo Zoo’s! Thanks to BSNL we were still connected to the world including our spouses in Leh. The good news was that the weather being good, and the passage being blocked now for three days, the clearance work would happen expeditiously but the bad news was that there were fresh landslides.
We were directed to the SHO at the Police outpost in Sonamarg to get the correct status but even he was not able to connect to Drass, where it was all happening. We turned back and spoke to the outpost as well as people in Leh and Srinagar and the common news unfortunately was that nothing was likely to happen tonight so we reconciled and headed in search of a suitable accommodation for the night. The SHO was busy doing his job by traversing the stretch between Sonamarg and the landslide area as hundreds of vehicles carrying valuable provisions were stranded on this side, all queuing up and impatiently waiting for the good news. Our only connection with the SHO, in his absence was a young, policemen, Shabbir, at guard with a very disarming smile who couldn’t help but helplessly smile each time we approached for the latest news on the passage and his boss the SHO.
A Tip for travelers: Traveling at this time in May is not always the best thing to do. Perhaps end May or early June would be a better option.
We managed to find a two bedroom cottage of JK Tourism Development Corporation which though at a picturesque location was ill equipped with low voltage, dirty towels, no heaters, no T.V reception and hardly any infrastructure. So much for Government administration in the tourism space.
Forlorn but still very upbeat and high spirited, we decided to make the best of the beautiful location that Sonamarg is, by walking in the mountains and climbing up to a small glacial flow. It was dinner time soon and with hopes still high we drove down to a decent restaurant in a Hotel and enjoyed the Tandoori Chicken and Dal with some great crisp rotis. The weather was cold at 9 degrees and a strong cold breeze which had us shivering by now. V.S, still under clad, still refused to divulge the source of all the warmth he could retain! We were on Tenterhooks alright, but loving it!
We turned in early after the usual round of mirth and leg pulling, which certainly lightened the end of the day’s proceedings. We spoke to the SHO at 11pm, just before turning in and he was hopeful of the next day being favorable. He also promised us an update at 8 am the next morning.
P.S. Till the time, N.K’s Vodafone network worked, the mystery of the MISSed calls still continued!
Day 5.
Stranded in Heaven. On Tenterhooks but loving it!
19th May 2010, Wednesday
Place : Srinagar to Sonamarg (Destined for Kargil but not to be!)
With a late night report of the Drass area still snowed out and infested with landslides due to the incessant rain, we were hopeful that good weather would prevail the next day for making our journey to Kargil possible. Early morning calls were made to the local Traffic Control Police, the Kargil outpost, The Leh Deputy Commandant, to check the situation on ground. The response was positive as work was on to remove the obstructions. The morning did welcome us with bright sunshine which made everyone feel good as this would facilitate faster clearance work.
By now, our respective spouses had also reached Leh, a day before our scheduled arrival, as had been previously planned. An extra day because they needed to acclimatize whereas we would do that naturally as we climbed up. They were also concerned and worried as they had been looking forward to welcoming us when we arrived in Leh and of course enjoy the sights around, with us.
We got some good news about the clearing being possible late afternoon. We enjoyed the breakfast and that comprised of hand tossed omlettes cooked by N.K with his love and culinary skills and then spent time in the bright sunshine in the sprawling garden of our hosts residence, clicking some whacky photographs and savoring their hospitality. At around noon, we heard that there was a likelihood of the passage opening late afternoon so we decided to leave immediately as it would take us 3 hours to get to the location and the hope of passing through immediately, thereby saving precious time.
Saying our goodbyes to the hosts, we hit the road with S.W. at the wheel, and exited Srinagar by traversing the periphery of the Dal lake which simmered in the bright sunshine, with the Four Chinars and the snow capped mountains making the view breathtaking. The meter read 7333 km.
Leg 1. At the Wheel, S.W.
The narrow winding streets of Srinagar were congested and it was a pity that with the kind of flow and tourism, almost around the year, the Government had done little to make the exit route more convenient. We took the Dragryung Road to Highway NH1D which goes all the way to Leh.
The drive was memorable with the Sind river on one side and the panoramic snowcapped mountains forming the backdrop. The road was a dual carriage, with broken patches caused by the vagaries of recent bad weather. An hour and a half away from Srinagar, we stopped at a roadside Dhaba at Kangan Saran, for some Aloo parathas and Onion Pakoras. Onion Pakoras seem to be a specialty and much in demand menu option almost at every dhaba. The Sind was flowing by the dhaba and eating here, sitting outside was something else. We had a great system for sharing our expenses. We had entrusted N.K with the responsibility of paying for all expenses enroute and had given him an equal share of money to start with. This went into an envelop which he carried all the time
( Our UBL or Union Bank of Lefafa) and this became our constant ATM.
Leg 2. V.S at the Wheel.
We had time on hand so we decided to stop at another spot by the gushing and frothing Sind to click some pictures on the rocks close to the bank of the river, just alongside the highway.
We crossed Sonamarg and 10 km on, we were stopped as there had been another landslide. This was much smaller in comparison and was being cleared. We were by now trying to figure things out by calling various people who would give us an accurate assessment of the situation. All our phones, except V.S with a BSNL connection, were not working now. No Vodafone, no Tata Indicom. Wonder what happened to the Zoo Zoo’s! Thanks to BSNL we were still connected to the world including our spouses in Leh. The good news was that the weather being good, and the passage being blocked now for three days, the clearance work would happen expeditiously but the bad news was that there were fresh landslides.
We were directed to the SHO at the Police outpost in Sonamarg to get the correct status but even he was not able to connect to Drass, where it was all happening. We turned back and spoke to the outpost as well as people in Leh and Srinagar and the common news unfortunately was that nothing was likely to happen tonight so we reconciled and headed in search of a suitable accommodation for the night. The SHO was busy doing his job by traversing the stretch between Sonamarg and the landslide area as hundreds of vehicles carrying valuable provisions were stranded on this side, all queuing up and impatiently waiting for the good news. Our only connection with the SHO, in his absence was a young, policemen, Shabbir, at guard with a very disarming smile who couldn’t help but helplessly smile each time we approached for the latest news on the passage and his boss the SHO.
A Tip for travelers: Traveling at this time in May is not always the best thing to do. Perhaps end May or early June would be a better option.
We managed to find a two bedroom cottage of JK Tourism Development Corporation which though at a picturesque location was ill equipped with low voltage, dirty towels, no heaters, no T.V reception and hardly any infrastructure. So much for Government administration in the tourism space.
Forlorn but still very upbeat and high spirited, we decided to make the best of the beautiful location that Sonamarg is, by walking in the mountains and climbing up to a small glacial flow. It was dinner time soon and with hopes still high we drove down to a decent restaurant in a Hotel and enjoyed the Tandoori Chicken and Dal with some great crisp rotis. The weather was cold at 9 degrees and a strong cold breeze which had us shivering by now. V.S, still under clad, still refused to divulge the source of all the warmth he could retain! We were on Tenterhooks alright, but loving it!
We turned in early after the usual round of mirth and leg pulling, which certainly lightened the end of the day’s proceedings. We spoke to the SHO at 11pm, just before turning in and he was hopeful of the next day being favorable. He also promised us an update at 8 am the next morning.
P.S. Till the time, N.K’s Vodafone network worked, the mystery of the MISSed calls still continued!
Day 4 again. Stranded at Sonamarg, J&K
Stranded at Sonamarg, J&K due to heavy snow and therefore unable to update the blog.
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Day 4. The Twist in the Tail. Lounging in Srinagar.
TOYOTA Leh Jayenge
Day 4.
The Twist in the Tail. And a damp squib!
18th May 2010, Tuesday
Place : Srinagar
Woke up leisurely on a wet cool morning on tenterhooks.
The background for that feeling………well we might as well share that now. The evening before we had planned to prepone our departure for Kargil by a day to surprise our respective spouses who were scheduled to arrive in Leh on the 19th. Alas that was not to be. The wet weather had put paid to our plans as there had been landslides in the Kargil area. So leaving tomorrow was out for sure. Moreover heavy snow and rain in the Drass area made the job of clearing the landslides even more difficult. We were in constant touch with the Police Control Room and the Border Security Force to get an update but the situation seemed gloomy.
Nonetheless, we had to make the best of our stay in Srinagar. So we had a laid back morning session of tea with Raghvendra and Rakhi and shared our mirthful experiences en route from Lucknow to Srinagar, besides updating our Blog and reading all the interesting comments friends and family had posted. What we couldn’t figure out though, was why some postings with ‘Anonymous’ options were without names of the sender. I can understand the limitation of choosing an available option but at least write your name guys, so we know who means what and to whom the same is directed.
Anyway, as it was raining almost incessantly, we had a wholesome breakfast with Nisheeth maintaining his Tuesday Hanumanji farce……..oops……….fast! Then a hot shower later were out in the verandah watching the woodpeckers in the sprawling garden outside the mansion and enjoying some chilled beer and munchies. Nisheeth of course, on a farce….oops fast, preferred to stay with lime juice…………… and Vodka! Trigger happy Vijay was unstoppable and insisted on an impromptu photo session right there in the verandah.
Lunch was soon laid and some amazing arhar dal chawal and Rista and some sinful desserts later we decided to take a sight seeing trip around the Dal lake and the sweet spots like Pari Mahal, Chishmasahi, Hazrat Bal and the Lal Chowk area. Srinagar truly is a picture perfect destination which really has been sacrificed for political reasons. Heaven on earth is truly what it is!
Returning from our outing, it was still drizzling and dampening our plans was the news that the route to Kargil was still clouded with unceratinity. In any case, we had no real Plan B yet as the other route from Manali would take another three days and that route would also not necessarily be open. So we crossed our fingers and deliberated over a cup of hot tea and pakoras served by our gracious hosts. The next update on road conditions would be available later at night or tomorrow, so we had little choice but to be patient.
At night, to lighten the mood, we decided to go for a meal to the nearby Lalit Grand. Lets see what tomorrow has in store.
Day 4.
The Twist in the Tail. And a damp squib!
18th May 2010, Tuesday
Place : Srinagar
Woke up leisurely on a wet cool morning on tenterhooks.
The background for that feeling………well we might as well share that now. The evening before we had planned to prepone our departure for Kargil by a day to surprise our respective spouses who were scheduled to arrive in Leh on the 19th. Alas that was not to be. The wet weather had put paid to our plans as there had been landslides in the Kargil area. So leaving tomorrow was out for sure. Moreover heavy snow and rain in the Drass area made the job of clearing the landslides even more difficult. We were in constant touch with the Police Control Room and the Border Security Force to get an update but the situation seemed gloomy.
Nonetheless, we had to make the best of our stay in Srinagar. So we had a laid back morning session of tea with Raghvendra and Rakhi and shared our mirthful experiences en route from Lucknow to Srinagar, besides updating our Blog and reading all the interesting comments friends and family had posted. What we couldn’t figure out though, was why some postings with ‘Anonymous’ options were without names of the sender. I can understand the limitation of choosing an available option but at least write your name guys, so we know who means what and to whom the same is directed.
Anyway, as it was raining almost incessantly, we had a wholesome breakfast with Nisheeth maintaining his Tuesday Hanumanji farce……..oops……….fast! Then a hot shower later were out in the verandah watching the woodpeckers in the sprawling garden outside the mansion and enjoying some chilled beer and munchies. Nisheeth of course, on a farce….oops fast, preferred to stay with lime juice…………… and Vodka! Trigger happy Vijay was unstoppable and insisted on an impromptu photo session right there in the verandah.
Lunch was soon laid and some amazing arhar dal chawal and Rista and some sinful desserts later we decided to take a sight seeing trip around the Dal lake and the sweet spots like Pari Mahal, Chishmasahi, Hazrat Bal and the Lal Chowk area. Srinagar truly is a picture perfect destination which really has been sacrificed for political reasons. Heaven on earth is truly what it is!
Returning from our outing, it was still drizzling and dampening our plans was the news that the route to Kargil was still clouded with unceratinity. In any case, we had no real Plan B yet as the other route from Manali would take another three days and that route would also not necessarily be open. So we crossed our fingers and deliberated over a cup of hot tea and pakoras served by our gracious hosts. The next update on road conditions would be available later at night or tomorrow, so we had little choice but to be patient.
At night, to lighten the mood, we decided to go for a meal to the nearby Lalit Grand. Lets see what tomorrow has in store.
Monday, May 17, 2010
Day 3. The Mystery of the MISSed Calls!
TOYOTA Leh Jayenge
Day 3. Srinagar
The Mystery of the MISSed Calls!
17th May 2010 Monday.
Whose call was it anyways?!
What a lovely morning it was! The serene environ of the Officer’s Mess at Udhampur was worth getting up to. The sky was overcast and the heavenly breeze augured a beautiful day ahead. Thanks to Colonel Bajpai’s hospitality we enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast of freshly made Masala Omlettes served in the rooms in true army style.
Nisheeth who had turned in early for inexplicable reasons the previous night got up leisurely and asked me what I was doing up so early. I told him it was all about slogging and blogging!I was loving all this as the weather was so inspiring.
Nisheeth ventured out with video camera to catch some animal action. What he actually captured were some birds and a cat having fun (?)! Any excuse to go after birds would do for him, I guess!
After saying our goodbyes and Thank you’s we had packed our bags and were ready to depart on our first leg for the day, to Batote, en route to Srinagar.
Leg 1. At the Wheel, K.C. ( Kinda Crazy)
The mist was settling in and it was fabulous weather as in the early morning. We left at 9.30 am and headed along the valley overlooking the Tawi river. The valley was green and bedecked with flora and fauna which blended beautifully with the frothy flowing river going downstream. Just an hour away from Udhampur, the view so fascinated us that we had to stop and take some pictures. That’s where I lost my Uninor cap in the breeze and watched it helplessly float down towards the river.
An hour later after crossing the famed Patni Top and Kudh,we spotted a picturesque location to appease the craving of N.K ( Naughty Kid)who wanted tea so we decided to stop. The restaurant , Motimahal International was located at Tringla in Batote. V.S. ( Very Sexy) couldn’t hold himself back when he smelt some fresh Pakoras. They turned out to be the onion kinds and with the light drizzle, seemed to just blend perfectly. The plate ordered was polished in less than a minute. K.C ( Kinda Crazy) then handed over the wheels to S.W. ( Simply Wild) for the second leg. The distance for the entire 3rd days stretch was 240 km and we had aptly decided to switch legs after every 60 kms.
Leg 2. At the Wheel S.W.
The music and Shekhar switched on simultaneously. Then a funny thing happened. Nisheeth got a call but no one spoke. When asked, he said it was a wrong number. Surprisingly this had been happening over the last three days and uncannily, only with him. The mystery of the MISS(ed) calls deepened as it happened yet again! Nisheeth protested that they were blank or calls he preferred not to answer in our presence. We wondered why!
We then entered the Jawahar Tunnel, 2.5 km in length, and emerged only till we saw light at the other end. The road so far had been fine till after the tunnel when the same became slushy and undulated probably because of the heavy snowfall a few weeks earlier. Nisheeth in the meanwhile was hungry again and wanted to stop for lunch and Shekhar said he would, but after the tunnel. Nisheeth was cribbing that that would be too long so Shekhar stepped on the gas pedal much to the chagrin of Nisheeth who agreed to stop and eat at the next good place. Soon after the tunnel though, fortunate for him, we spotted a Punjabi Dhaba overlooking the valley. We were actually all ravenous and lunch was ordered. The menu was Rajma Chawal, Aloo Chola and Egg bhujiya with Parathas laced in ghee and deep fried.But who cared! It all tasted delicious. It had started to rain so we decided to have a strong dhaba cup of tea and then headed forward. Vijay was next on the wheel and we had less than a 100 km to go now, to Srinagar.
Leg 3. V.S. at the Wheel.
Vijay got a straight stretch soon after with beautiful tree lined avenues and with the rain persisting the greenery all around looked inviting. Since we were all enjoying the drive and the music, it suddenly dawned on Shekhar that Nisheeth was to take the wheel next. We stopped and Vijay promptly handed over the wheel and wished Nisheeth luck.
Leg 4. N.K. on the Wheel
Fortune favours the brave and it was another bad day in store for Nisheeth it seemed. After barely 10 kms, we ran into the heavy Srinagar traffic. It was 5 pm and offices had just gotten over, as if waiting for Nisheeth to drive into town. Cursing his way through, we finally made it to Vijay’s daughter and son in law’s
( Raghvendra and Rakhi ) mansion like residence on Gupkar Road, a VIP area, adjoining Farooq Abdullah’s residence.
The weather was chilly now and the rain added to the chill factor. As we got off, it hit us and we scampered to find our woolens. Except Vijay. Nisheeth who was concerned, questioned him as to why he wouldn’t wear something warm, When Vijay replied he was comfortable without it, Nisheeth did some arithmetic and thought he knew the reason. What transpired remains a mystery as well. Garmi kahan se aayi, was his persistent question. Vijay retorted yeh dil ki baat hai!
The house, owned by royalty before, was beautiful inside out. A colonial mansion, huge in size but warm to come to. We were told it was more than a hundred years old. After freshening up we joined Raghvendra and Rakhi and some invited guests who had come for dinner. We added to the evening by presenting them with some Chivas and Absolut to keep the evening warm.
Despite the cold weather, the setting was outdoors and when Vijay walked out, Nisheeth jumped out of his skin when he saw Vijay in a short sleeved T-Shirt while everyone else including the invitees were well clad.And it was 12 degrees Celcius! Vijay again reacted by saying ‘andar ka mamala hai!’
The dinner followed and it was an exotic mix of Kashmiri delights and some amazing desserts. A quick round of liquors signaled the end of the day. It was truly an end to a wonderful day and evening!
The mystery of the MISSed calls and Vijays immunity to cold remains unsolved. More later!
Day 3. Srinagar
The Mystery of the MISSed Calls!
17th May 2010 Monday.
Whose call was it anyways?!
What a lovely morning it was! The serene environ of the Officer’s Mess at Udhampur was worth getting up to. The sky was overcast and the heavenly breeze augured a beautiful day ahead. Thanks to Colonel Bajpai’s hospitality we enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast of freshly made Masala Omlettes served in the rooms in true army style.
Nisheeth who had turned in early for inexplicable reasons the previous night got up leisurely and asked me what I was doing up so early. I told him it was all about slogging and blogging!I was loving all this as the weather was so inspiring.
Nisheeth ventured out with video camera to catch some animal action. What he actually captured were some birds and a cat having fun (?)! Any excuse to go after birds would do for him, I guess!
After saying our goodbyes and Thank you’s we had packed our bags and were ready to depart on our first leg for the day, to Batote, en route to Srinagar.
Leg 1. At the Wheel, K.C. ( Kinda Crazy)
The mist was settling in and it was fabulous weather as in the early morning. We left at 9.30 am and headed along the valley overlooking the Tawi river. The valley was green and bedecked with flora and fauna which blended beautifully with the frothy flowing river going downstream. Just an hour away from Udhampur, the view so fascinated us that we had to stop and take some pictures. That’s where I lost my Uninor cap in the breeze and watched it helplessly float down towards the river.
An hour later after crossing the famed Patni Top and Kudh,we spotted a picturesque location to appease the craving of N.K ( Naughty Kid)who wanted tea so we decided to stop. The restaurant , Motimahal International was located at Tringla in Batote. V.S. ( Very Sexy) couldn’t hold himself back when he smelt some fresh Pakoras. They turned out to be the onion kinds and with the light drizzle, seemed to just blend perfectly. The plate ordered was polished in less than a minute. K.C ( Kinda Crazy) then handed over the wheels to S.W. ( Simply Wild) for the second leg. The distance for the entire 3rd days stretch was 240 km and we had aptly decided to switch legs after every 60 kms.
Leg 2. At the Wheel S.W.
The music and Shekhar switched on simultaneously. Then a funny thing happened. Nisheeth got a call but no one spoke. When asked, he said it was a wrong number. Surprisingly this had been happening over the last three days and uncannily, only with him. The mystery of the MISS(ed) calls deepened as it happened yet again! Nisheeth protested that they were blank or calls he preferred not to answer in our presence. We wondered why!
We then entered the Jawahar Tunnel, 2.5 km in length, and emerged only till we saw light at the other end. The road so far had been fine till after the tunnel when the same became slushy and undulated probably because of the heavy snowfall a few weeks earlier. Nisheeth in the meanwhile was hungry again and wanted to stop for lunch and Shekhar said he would, but after the tunnel. Nisheeth was cribbing that that would be too long so Shekhar stepped on the gas pedal much to the chagrin of Nisheeth who agreed to stop and eat at the next good place. Soon after the tunnel though, fortunate for him, we spotted a Punjabi Dhaba overlooking the valley. We were actually all ravenous and lunch was ordered. The menu was Rajma Chawal, Aloo Chola and Egg bhujiya with Parathas laced in ghee and deep fried.But who cared! It all tasted delicious. It had started to rain so we decided to have a strong dhaba cup of tea and then headed forward. Vijay was next on the wheel and we had less than a 100 km to go now, to Srinagar.
Leg 3. V.S. at the Wheel.
Vijay got a straight stretch soon after with beautiful tree lined avenues and with the rain persisting the greenery all around looked inviting. Since we were all enjoying the drive and the music, it suddenly dawned on Shekhar that Nisheeth was to take the wheel next. We stopped and Vijay promptly handed over the wheel and wished Nisheeth luck.
Leg 4. N.K. on the Wheel
Fortune favours the brave and it was another bad day in store for Nisheeth it seemed. After barely 10 kms, we ran into the heavy Srinagar traffic. It was 5 pm and offices had just gotten over, as if waiting for Nisheeth to drive into town. Cursing his way through, we finally made it to Vijay’s daughter and son in law’s
( Raghvendra and Rakhi ) mansion like residence on Gupkar Road, a VIP area, adjoining Farooq Abdullah’s residence.
The weather was chilly now and the rain added to the chill factor. As we got off, it hit us and we scampered to find our woolens. Except Vijay. Nisheeth who was concerned, questioned him as to why he wouldn’t wear something warm, When Vijay replied he was comfortable without it, Nisheeth did some arithmetic and thought he knew the reason. What transpired remains a mystery as well. Garmi kahan se aayi, was his persistent question. Vijay retorted yeh dil ki baat hai!
The house, owned by royalty before, was beautiful inside out. A colonial mansion, huge in size but warm to come to. We were told it was more than a hundred years old. After freshening up we joined Raghvendra and Rakhi and some invited guests who had come for dinner. We added to the evening by presenting them with some Chivas and Absolut to keep the evening warm.
Despite the cold weather, the setting was outdoors and when Vijay walked out, Nisheeth jumped out of his skin when he saw Vijay in a short sleeved T-Shirt while everyone else including the invitees were well clad.And it was 12 degrees Celcius! Vijay again reacted by saying ‘andar ka mamala hai!’
The dinner followed and it was an exotic mix of Kashmiri delights and some amazing desserts. A quick round of liquors signaled the end of the day. It was truly an end to a wonderful day and evening!
The mystery of the MISSed calls and Vijays immunity to cold remains unsolved. More later!
Day 2. No Lassi. Just Rajeev Darling!
TOYOTA Leh Jayenge
Day 2. Udhampur
Lassi Ki Talash
16th May 2010 Sunday.
No Lassi. Just Rajeev Darling!
A night at Hotel Jewel in Karnal revived all of us, especially since all of us slept well. Day 2 was a Sunday so we took it easy since the roads would be relatively free of the usual traffic. We were up at 7 am and ready by 8 am. After a light breakfast we were all set to leave by 8.15 am.
Leg 1. At the Wheel N.K.
Nisheeth was the first to take the wheel and we hit the Karnal to Ambala highway. Shekhar had rearranged the luggage space and got rid of the extra boxes and stuff that was redundant.
However, as we left,our navigator Shekhar scanning the route map casually mentioned that Kurukshetra was on our way to Ambala, barely an hour from Karnal. Vijay and Nisheeth in unison expressed their desire to catch up with mythology so we had a consensus and took a detour to enter the hallowed surrounds of what is folklore in mythology……….Kurukshetra, the battle ground of the fabled Mahabharata. Owned by King Kuru and identified by Lord Krishna when a farmer killed his son and used his body to block a breached dam, the ideal spot for the Kauravs and Pandavs to confront in battle, an epic of unparalelled proportions. We hired a guide and asked him to take us on a whirlwind tour which he did. We visited Akshay Vraksh vatika, which supposedly has immortal trees aging 5000 years plus, under which Lord Krishna shared his jewels with Arjun. We then visited the Brahma Sarovar where Lord Brahma emerged and created the world. This was followed by a visit to Ban Ganga, where Arjun shot an arrow into the ground to get water for Bhishma Pitamah.
The temple of the Ban Ganga had a huge statue of Lord Hanuman, at the entrance which was imposing and impressive. The visit was a diversion well worth it. Some pictures were taken by Vijay, Nisheeth and me for the record.
Nisheeth by now had consumed most of his two hours and was still upset with the way traffic treated him, despite being a Sunday. The widening was still continuing on this stretch so we were crisscrossing just like the oncoming traffic. Since breakfast was frugal, we opened up the packed goodies given by our spouses and thoroughly enjoyed the Mann ( jaggery pancakes) and the Laiya
( Puffed Rice masala). By 11 am or so we were almost at Ambala and I took over the wheel.
Leg 2. At the Wheel K.C.
It was a hot day, with temperatures touching 45 degrees plus. But thanks to the cool confines of our amazing Fortuner which has a multi ducted, very efficient Air Conditioning system, we were quite oblivious of the vagaries outside. I was fortunate with the road conditions as almost the entire stretch spanning cities like Sirhind, Ludhiana and Phagwara was connected with sprawling highways. This is the engineering and Textile belt of Punjab. The radio FM reception was erratic on the highway,so Shekhar switched the music to some amazing and pulsating stuff, ranging from Dire Straits, CCR, Santana, Doors, Madonna, Abba, Cliff, BoneyM and more! The road was good. The music was even better and I had fun at the wheel, touching 150 km an hour on the wide and clean highway stretches. Sunday helped as traffic was sparse. The Fortuner truly responded and drove like a dream. The amazing thrust while overtaking is testimony of its powerful 3 liter Diesel engine.
As we crossed Ludhiana, we spotted a Monte Carlo Hosiery and Woolen factory outlet. It looked interesting so we stopped to have a look. And in the bargain, picked up some very reasonable woolens, loungewear and tops for ourselves and our respective spouses. Since the highway stretches were still clean and we had lost time in Kurukshetra, we decided to press on and I was enjoying the music and the drive so although my two odd hours were up, we decided to switch when we stopped for lunch. Nisheeth wanted to have Lassi ( Yogurt shake) desperately which can actually make you drowsy and lethargic. But since he had completed his ‘shift’ he could well afford to! However despite our serious and persistent search en route we couldn’t find the right place for the Lassi so we settled for stopping at the Orchid Cabana Hotel on the highway, between Phagwara and Jalandhar. The property was new and beautiful. The ambience was pristine and the break did us good. The surrounds were so inviting that trigger happy Vijay wanted to use his camera skills to have a photo session which included the supermodels……….us that is……..some bonsai’s, stemmed glasses and the waiters jacket as a backdrop! Figure that out yourself!
The spouses were keeping track of our movements and missing being with us. Then Nisheeth ( over a fabulous lunch of Chicken Khurchan, Meat khara masala and some arhar dal ) wanted to share his thoughts on this ‘men only ‘ trip. He said he had done it for the first time and was loving it. Asked if he missed having his wife he went into a hilarious philosophical discourse which had us in splits. It was something to with tiffin carriers and you would have to ask him what he meant! Some of this was cleverly captured on tape in a string operation by yours truly! Post Lunch it was Shekhar to take over and we left just after 3.30 pm. Nisheeth was still deprived of his lassi which he still figured would be available at some ‘Haveli’ food court down the road but that was not to be as it never appeared. So Nisheeth never got to drink the potent white stuff.
Leg 3. At the wheel, S.W.
This was the stretch from Jalandhar to Pathankot, about 120 Km and we had to get off the highway at Jalandhar to get on to the state highway which was also under extensive expansion. What amazed all of us throughout our drive in some parts of Haryana and all of Punjab, was the very serious focus on highway development and the war footing on which the job has been undertaken.
The single carriage stretch on the state highway however was very frustrating as we had to tail slower trucks, buses and other forms of traffic. However Shekhar deftly maneuvered the black beauty which powered on over undulated road surfaces, unmetalled patches and more. Sitting at the back were Nisheeth and Vijay, were not quite enjoying the proceedings. While they were being shaken and stirred at the same time ( unlike Bond’s Martini), they held on for dear life and asked for the music to be toned down as the faster it got the faster they were being tossed around. Maybe the Caribbean music got to Shekhar at the wheel!
Vijay was craving for his black sugarless coffee and we for our tea and then the oasis appeared. A Nirulas, just on the outskirts of Pathankot around 6.15 pm. A few bumps and back breaking jumps later we were there with Vijay crawling out of the back checking if all his bones were intact! It was a happy and colourful outlet
( perhaps due to it being a Sunday) and we ordered our respective beverages, with Shekhar opting for a Chip Chocolate ice cream. The staff at the Nirula’s outlet was headed by one Rajeev, who would actually put Bobby Darling to shame! And when we asked if we could take photographs, he promptly checked his(?) cap, and cozied up to Vijay for a group. Wonder if the ‘Very Sexy’ plastered on Vijay’s back had anything to do with that!
It was getting dark and we were entering J&K so we decided to leave thereafter without wasting time.
Leg 4. At the Wheel, V.S.
We crossed over into J&K just after Nirula’s and had to show the Vehicle papers and Driving license to the border authorities, this being a high risk area. The initial 10 minutes were toughest on the SUV and for Vijay at the wheel. There was a non existent road, apparently under repair and the potholes also appeared from nowhere. The apathy and abject poverty, as we crossed into the state was apparent and visible. However full marks to the SUV for shielding us from the aftershock of the surface we were traveling on . The suspension and road holding ability is to be commended.
It had now become dark and there was no illumination. The road meandered into half made and unmade stretches, which tested Vijay’s driving skills to the full. He did a great job and considering his was the toughest stretch of the day, didn’t mind doing what he was. We took a turn at Samba, from the highway we were on, leading to Jammu. This was a sort of by pass to Udhampur our final destination for the day. While it was a winding hill road, we had to miss out on the scenic surrounds as it was pitch dark. The road as before, was bad, with large patches of unpredictable surfaces. Shekhar and me tried to figure out for the first time, how the GPS worked and while we did mange to get a hang of it, realized it was not the best to have on board. Some of the info being displayed was incredulous, so we let it be. We would probably test it on the next stretch as so far the signage and Shekhar’s navigation skills was adequate to guide us along.
We finally made it to Udhampur at 9.30 pm and looked around for a decent place to eat. It being a Sunday, it was all quiet and peaceful. We spotted a small Hotel with a Restaurant ( Samrat) and settled for some Tandoori Chicken and Butter Chicken for the Dinner menu. A sidelight was the T-20 finals which were being telecast on the television set in the lobby. While we watched Australia precarious against England, we saw some late stage heroics after they were 8 for 3!
We then headed for the Officers mess in the Military Hospital campus where we were scheduled to stay for the night. Vijay’s old friend and schoolmate, general AK Singh in Lucknow had helped work this out and Col Bajpai was ready and waiting when we arrived at 10.30 pm. He also had his roots in Lucknow ( Kanya Kubj College lineage) so we chatted on a few common subjects before we thanked him for the courtesy and apologized for spoiling his Sunday evening. We got two very comfortable suites and after watching England overwhelm Australia with a comfortable victory, retired for the day. A wonderful cool breeze which was blowing translated into good weather for the morning and first at the wheel tomorrow, I was looking forward to the day ahead!
Day 2. Udhampur
Lassi Ki Talash
16th May 2010 Sunday.
No Lassi. Just Rajeev Darling!
A night at Hotel Jewel in Karnal revived all of us, especially since all of us slept well. Day 2 was a Sunday so we took it easy since the roads would be relatively free of the usual traffic. We were up at 7 am and ready by 8 am. After a light breakfast we were all set to leave by 8.15 am.
Leg 1. At the Wheel N.K.
Nisheeth was the first to take the wheel and we hit the Karnal to Ambala highway. Shekhar had rearranged the luggage space and got rid of the extra boxes and stuff that was redundant.
However, as we left,our navigator Shekhar scanning the route map casually mentioned that Kurukshetra was on our way to Ambala, barely an hour from Karnal. Vijay and Nisheeth in unison expressed their desire to catch up with mythology so we had a consensus and took a detour to enter the hallowed surrounds of what is folklore in mythology……….Kurukshetra, the battle ground of the fabled Mahabharata. Owned by King Kuru and identified by Lord Krishna when a farmer killed his son and used his body to block a breached dam, the ideal spot for the Kauravs and Pandavs to confront in battle, an epic of unparalelled proportions. We hired a guide and asked him to take us on a whirlwind tour which he did. We visited Akshay Vraksh vatika, which supposedly has immortal trees aging 5000 years plus, under which Lord Krishna shared his jewels with Arjun. We then visited the Brahma Sarovar where Lord Brahma emerged and created the world. This was followed by a visit to Ban Ganga, where Arjun shot an arrow into the ground to get water for Bhishma Pitamah.
The temple of the Ban Ganga had a huge statue of Lord Hanuman, at the entrance which was imposing and impressive. The visit was a diversion well worth it. Some pictures were taken by Vijay, Nisheeth and me for the record.
Nisheeth by now had consumed most of his two hours and was still upset with the way traffic treated him, despite being a Sunday. The widening was still continuing on this stretch so we were crisscrossing just like the oncoming traffic. Since breakfast was frugal, we opened up the packed goodies given by our spouses and thoroughly enjoyed the Mann ( jaggery pancakes) and the Laiya
( Puffed Rice masala). By 11 am or so we were almost at Ambala and I took over the wheel.
Leg 2. At the Wheel K.C.
It was a hot day, with temperatures touching 45 degrees plus. But thanks to the cool confines of our amazing Fortuner which has a multi ducted, very efficient Air Conditioning system, we were quite oblivious of the vagaries outside. I was fortunate with the road conditions as almost the entire stretch spanning cities like Sirhind, Ludhiana and Phagwara was connected with sprawling highways. This is the engineering and Textile belt of Punjab. The radio FM reception was erratic on the highway,so Shekhar switched the music to some amazing and pulsating stuff, ranging from Dire Straits, CCR, Santana, Doors, Madonna, Abba, Cliff, BoneyM and more! The road was good. The music was even better and I had fun at the wheel, touching 150 km an hour on the wide and clean highway stretches. Sunday helped as traffic was sparse. The Fortuner truly responded and drove like a dream. The amazing thrust while overtaking is testimony of its powerful 3 liter Diesel engine.
As we crossed Ludhiana, we spotted a Monte Carlo Hosiery and Woolen factory outlet. It looked interesting so we stopped to have a look. And in the bargain, picked up some very reasonable woolens, loungewear and tops for ourselves and our respective spouses. Since the highway stretches were still clean and we had lost time in Kurukshetra, we decided to press on and I was enjoying the music and the drive so although my two odd hours were up, we decided to switch when we stopped for lunch. Nisheeth wanted to have Lassi ( Yogurt shake) desperately which can actually make you drowsy and lethargic. But since he had completed his ‘shift’ he could well afford to! However despite our serious and persistent search en route we couldn’t find the right place for the Lassi so we settled for stopping at the Orchid Cabana Hotel on the highway, between Phagwara and Jalandhar. The property was new and beautiful. The ambience was pristine and the break did us good. The surrounds were so inviting that trigger happy Vijay wanted to use his camera skills to have a photo session which included the supermodels……….us that is……..some bonsai’s, stemmed glasses and the waiters jacket as a backdrop! Figure that out yourself!
The spouses were keeping track of our movements and missing being with us. Then Nisheeth ( over a fabulous lunch of Chicken Khurchan, Meat khara masala and some arhar dal ) wanted to share his thoughts on this ‘men only ‘ trip. He said he had done it for the first time and was loving it. Asked if he missed having his wife he went into a hilarious philosophical discourse which had us in splits. It was something to with tiffin carriers and you would have to ask him what he meant! Some of this was cleverly captured on tape in a string operation by yours truly! Post Lunch it was Shekhar to take over and we left just after 3.30 pm. Nisheeth was still deprived of his lassi which he still figured would be available at some ‘Haveli’ food court down the road but that was not to be as it never appeared. So Nisheeth never got to drink the potent white stuff.
Leg 3. At the wheel, S.W.
This was the stretch from Jalandhar to Pathankot, about 120 Km and we had to get off the highway at Jalandhar to get on to the state highway which was also under extensive expansion. What amazed all of us throughout our drive in some parts of Haryana and all of Punjab, was the very serious focus on highway development and the war footing on which the job has been undertaken.
The single carriage stretch on the state highway however was very frustrating as we had to tail slower trucks, buses and other forms of traffic. However Shekhar deftly maneuvered the black beauty which powered on over undulated road surfaces, unmetalled patches and more. Sitting at the back were Nisheeth and Vijay, were not quite enjoying the proceedings. While they were being shaken and stirred at the same time ( unlike Bond’s Martini), they held on for dear life and asked for the music to be toned down as the faster it got the faster they were being tossed around. Maybe the Caribbean music got to Shekhar at the wheel!
Vijay was craving for his black sugarless coffee and we for our tea and then the oasis appeared. A Nirulas, just on the outskirts of Pathankot around 6.15 pm. A few bumps and back breaking jumps later we were there with Vijay crawling out of the back checking if all his bones were intact! It was a happy and colourful outlet
( perhaps due to it being a Sunday) and we ordered our respective beverages, with Shekhar opting for a Chip Chocolate ice cream. The staff at the Nirula’s outlet was headed by one Rajeev, who would actually put Bobby Darling to shame! And when we asked if we could take photographs, he promptly checked his(?) cap, and cozied up to Vijay for a group. Wonder if the ‘Very Sexy’ plastered on Vijay’s back had anything to do with that!
It was getting dark and we were entering J&K so we decided to leave thereafter without wasting time.
Leg 4. At the Wheel, V.S.
We crossed over into J&K just after Nirula’s and had to show the Vehicle papers and Driving license to the border authorities, this being a high risk area. The initial 10 minutes were toughest on the SUV and for Vijay at the wheel. There was a non existent road, apparently under repair and the potholes also appeared from nowhere. The apathy and abject poverty, as we crossed into the state was apparent and visible. However full marks to the SUV for shielding us from the aftershock of the surface we were traveling on . The suspension and road holding ability is to be commended.
It had now become dark and there was no illumination. The road meandered into half made and unmade stretches, which tested Vijay’s driving skills to the full. He did a great job and considering his was the toughest stretch of the day, didn’t mind doing what he was. We took a turn at Samba, from the highway we were on, leading to Jammu. This was a sort of by pass to Udhampur our final destination for the day. While it was a winding hill road, we had to miss out on the scenic surrounds as it was pitch dark. The road as before, was bad, with large patches of unpredictable surfaces. Shekhar and me tried to figure out for the first time, how the GPS worked and while we did mange to get a hang of it, realized it was not the best to have on board. Some of the info being displayed was incredulous, so we let it be. We would probably test it on the next stretch as so far the signage and Shekhar’s navigation skills was adequate to guide us along.
We finally made it to Udhampur at 9.30 pm and looked around for a decent place to eat. It being a Sunday, it was all quiet and peaceful. We spotted a small Hotel with a Restaurant ( Samrat) and settled for some Tandoori Chicken and Butter Chicken for the Dinner menu. A sidelight was the T-20 finals which were being telecast on the television set in the lobby. While we watched Australia precarious against England, we saw some late stage heroics after they were 8 for 3!
We then headed for the Officers mess in the Military Hospital campus where we were scheduled to stay for the night. Vijay’s old friend and schoolmate, general AK Singh in Lucknow had helped work this out and Col Bajpai was ready and waiting when we arrived at 10.30 pm. He also had his roots in Lucknow ( Kanya Kubj College lineage) so we chatted on a few common subjects before we thanked him for the courtesy and apologized for spoiling his Sunday evening. We got two very comfortable suites and after watching England overwhelm Australia with a comfortable victory, retired for the day. A wonderful cool breeze which was blowing translated into good weather for the morning and first at the wheel tomorrow, I was looking forward to the day ahead!
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Day 1. Bhains ki Poonch, Shekhar ki Mooch! : 15th May 2010
The Toyota Leh Jayenge campaign started in real earnestness as per schedule. The excitement of days, culminated in an early start. Bags were packed, everyone decided to hit the shack early except me as I indulged in watching a hopelessly placed Australia outsmart a poised Pakistan, who stumbled at the winning post. That was the Cricket ICC World Cup T20 Semis in the West Indies. It was a match that kept me on the edge and therefore from sleeping early. Nonetheless, I did mange to get up early and ready in time for the 5.30 am pickup by Shekhar. I dreamt of the glorious panoramic glory of Leh and its surrounds as I am sure every other member of the team did!
It was barely sunrise and as I waited outside with bags packed, Shekhar arrived, 10 minutes late as he had to put together breakfast for the first leg. Next halt was at Vijay’s and after a farewell from the respective spouses, we ended up picking Nisheeth before we finally hit the road. Sitapur was the first halt and Vijay was entrusted with the first leg of driving the gorgeous Fortuner which looked absolutely stunning with all the sponsor logos adorned on its exterior, make it look every inch a Leh Jayenge Rally car!
Prayers said, bhajans playing and some leg pulling to start with had us traversing the 125 odd Kilometers in good time. Maigalganj was the first halt where the famed gulab jamuns were ready and waiting. Amidst the zillion flies that infested the shop area, we still devoured two each. This was supplemented by the aloo tikki which is a specialty too!
And while we licked our fingers over a cup of tea, Dr Anand who was aware of our trip, thanks to the media, happened to stop there too, with his family, en route to Nainital and wished us well, It’s a small word alright!
By now the music had changed from the solemn bhajans to some old classic Hindi numbers and Ghazals from Jagjit Singh which we nostalgically sung along. The road so far was a mix of good patches and undulated stretches caused by the road widening process on the highway. But Vijay deftly handled the prized Fortuner and made it to Shahjahanpur in good time. Just before however, we had a very fast reflexing Shekhar almost jump out of his seat next to the driver, when we overtook a buffalo hitched to a cart. The buffalo swished its huge tail targeting Shekhar’s moustache which fortunately was secured behind the window glass but the reaction it evoked from Shekhar was that of incredulous surprise and bewilderment! After a few sandwiches and some breakfast snacks, and sharing the SMS’s that kept pouring in to wish us luck, we had Nisheeth take over the wheel for Leg 2 of the day, which was till Moradabad via Barielly, Passing through UP towns is nothing short of a drivers nightmare, The roads are narrow with speed breakers thrown in for good measure, which appear without warning, besides the plethora of bullock carts, rickshaws, trucks that prefer to drive everywhere but the right side, and not to miss the two wheeled maniacs who attack you from all sides like the meteors from outer space. While Nisheeth was waging his Star war on the road, he kept cursing the rest for a raw deal as he had a harrowing two hours of nail biting moments. And this was just the beginning! He had chosen to take the wheel when he did and mockingly told us that Vijay had tricked him into doing so! Not that we believed him and while a couple of closed railway crossings added to his misery, we chose the oddest times to ease ourselves to stop and start. It was then decided that the Dostana would be fair and Jahanpana Vijay though feeling sorry for Nisheeth took him on a circuitous route to his nephew’s residence where we were invited to have lunch. By now the befuddled Nisheeth was at his wits end and refused to touch the wheel once parked in Moradabad. While we could not help laughing at the ‘Naught Kid’ getting a taste of naughtiness, we agreed that a cyclic pattern for driving would be followed on day two, Divide each days sector into four and allow each one to take the wheel by rotation. Sounded perfect, but Nisheeth still felt he had got a raw deal. We convinced him that the first session on the 16th was all highway so he finally accepted the laid system, While all this was happening on a lighter note and the 6 hours just flew in mirth, a little more salt was rubbed when I took over the wheel after a sumptuous lunch and hit a majority of straight highway stretches.
The music had now changed to some old Hindi numbers from yesteryears and added a bit of nostalgia again. By sunset we stopped at Baghpat for a quick cup of tea at a roadside restaurant and Shekhar took over the wheel. We were a couple of hours away and were relieved to reach Karnal. The local dealership offered to help by cleaning up the car while we checked in and did a super job. All credit to Toyota for networking with their dealership en route and offering quality support. Mr Sandeep Chakravorty of Globe Toyota should get credit for a great job done,
One of our very young well wishers who has traveled to Leh 4 times by road from New Delhi and who has been a source of information and resource for this trip, messaged Vijay trying to catch up with us. While she also follows our Blog ardently, there was this glint in Vijay’s eyes which Nisheeth did not like. Recently the press had covered this young friend chatting with Nisheeth, sharing her Leh experiences with him but had since not gotten in touch. And the fact that she was doing the needful with Vijay, had Nisheeth turn green! Who said there was anything wrong with going green??!! But Nisheeth being the environment friendly guy he is stayed that way! All this was the spice for Day 1.
After checking in at the Jewel Hotel in Karnal which was comfortable, we ventured out to a Dhaba close by, for dinner,
( Zhil Mil ) which turned out to be much below expectations. Incidentally there were THREE Zhil Mil’s right next to each other. So we took the option of going to the most crowded, which was the logic for the most popular Zhil Mil. But we were tired and hungry so managed to eat well. The throng of inquisitive youngsters at the Dhaba, the Hotel and pretty much along the way, wherever we stopped, had us sharing the USP of this adventure trip which fascinated them.
The Fortuner has been performing as expected and all of us enjoyed being behind the wheel, the vagaries of traffic and road conditions, notwithstanding!
We turned in after dinner and looked forward to the next leg tomorrow, the 16th of May 2010.. But not before I had put our Day 1 experience on the Blog.
Incidentally Nisheeth was entrusted with the central accounts for expenditure incurred which he capably handled.
A quick recap of the stretches and time covered on day 1 reads as under:
• Lucknow to Sitapur: 80 Km, 1 hour 30 minutes. Road still under widening interspaced with rough patches.
• Sitapur to Shahjanpur: 80 Km, 1 hour 30 minutes. Road conditions good but two track highway.
• Shajahanpur to Barielly: 80 Km. 1 hour 30 mins. Road conditiond fair but driving through Barielly a nightmare as there was no bypass.
• Barielly to Moradabad: 90 Km. 2 Hours. Road conditions good but HEAVY vehicular traffic and multiple railway crossings.
• Moradabad to Meerut: 120 Km. 1 Hour 30 Minutes. Road Conditions excellent. Highway. Going through Meerut however was arduous and city traffic painful.
• Meerut to Baghpat: 50 Km. 1 Hour. The road, a state highway was decent but traffic was consistent. Passing through Baghpat though was complicated as we had to negotiate narrow crowded bazaars and streets.
• Rohtak to Karnal: 80 Km. 1 Hour 30 Minutes. A mix of excellent highway though partly under expansio
It was barely sunrise and as I waited outside with bags packed, Shekhar arrived, 10 minutes late as he had to put together breakfast for the first leg. Next halt was at Vijay’s and after a farewell from the respective spouses, we ended up picking Nisheeth before we finally hit the road. Sitapur was the first halt and Vijay was entrusted with the first leg of driving the gorgeous Fortuner which looked absolutely stunning with all the sponsor logos adorned on its exterior, make it look every inch a Leh Jayenge Rally car!
Prayers said, bhajans playing and some leg pulling to start with had us traversing the 125 odd Kilometers in good time. Maigalganj was the first halt where the famed gulab jamuns were ready and waiting. Amidst the zillion flies that infested the shop area, we still devoured two each. This was supplemented by the aloo tikki which is a specialty too!
And while we licked our fingers over a cup of tea, Dr Anand who was aware of our trip, thanks to the media, happened to stop there too, with his family, en route to Nainital and wished us well, It’s a small word alright!
By now the music had changed from the solemn bhajans to some old classic Hindi numbers and Ghazals from Jagjit Singh which we nostalgically sung along. The road so far was a mix of good patches and undulated stretches caused by the road widening process on the highway. But Vijay deftly handled the prized Fortuner and made it to Shahjahanpur in good time. Just before however, we had a very fast reflexing Shekhar almost jump out of his seat next to the driver, when we overtook a buffalo hitched to a cart. The buffalo swished its huge tail targeting Shekhar’s moustache which fortunately was secured behind the window glass but the reaction it evoked from Shekhar was that of incredulous surprise and bewilderment! After a few sandwiches and some breakfast snacks, and sharing the SMS’s that kept pouring in to wish us luck, we had Nisheeth take over the wheel for Leg 2 of the day, which was till Moradabad via Barielly, Passing through UP towns is nothing short of a drivers nightmare, The roads are narrow with speed breakers thrown in for good measure, which appear without warning, besides the plethora of bullock carts, rickshaws, trucks that prefer to drive everywhere but the right side, and not to miss the two wheeled maniacs who attack you from all sides like the meteors from outer space. While Nisheeth was waging his Star war on the road, he kept cursing the rest for a raw deal as he had a harrowing two hours of nail biting moments. And this was just the beginning! He had chosen to take the wheel when he did and mockingly told us that Vijay had tricked him into doing so! Not that we believed him and while a couple of closed railway crossings added to his misery, we chose the oddest times to ease ourselves to stop and start. It was then decided that the Dostana would be fair and Jahanpana Vijay though feeling sorry for Nisheeth took him on a circuitous route to his nephew’s residence where we were invited to have lunch. By now the befuddled Nisheeth was at his wits end and refused to touch the wheel once parked in Moradabad. While we could not help laughing at the ‘Naught Kid’ getting a taste of naughtiness, we agreed that a cyclic pattern for driving would be followed on day two, Divide each days sector into four and allow each one to take the wheel by rotation. Sounded perfect, but Nisheeth still felt he had got a raw deal. We convinced him that the first session on the 16th was all highway so he finally accepted the laid system, While all this was happening on a lighter note and the 6 hours just flew in mirth, a little more salt was rubbed when I took over the wheel after a sumptuous lunch and hit a majority of straight highway stretches.
The music had now changed to some old Hindi numbers from yesteryears and added a bit of nostalgia again. By sunset we stopped at Baghpat for a quick cup of tea at a roadside restaurant and Shekhar took over the wheel. We were a couple of hours away and were relieved to reach Karnal. The local dealership offered to help by cleaning up the car while we checked in and did a super job. All credit to Toyota for networking with their dealership en route and offering quality support. Mr Sandeep Chakravorty of Globe Toyota should get credit for a great job done,
One of our very young well wishers who has traveled to Leh 4 times by road from New Delhi and who has been a source of information and resource for this trip, messaged Vijay trying to catch up with us. While she also follows our Blog ardently, there was this glint in Vijay’s eyes which Nisheeth did not like. Recently the press had covered this young friend chatting with Nisheeth, sharing her Leh experiences with him but had since not gotten in touch. And the fact that she was doing the needful with Vijay, had Nisheeth turn green! Who said there was anything wrong with going green??!! But Nisheeth being the environment friendly guy he is stayed that way! All this was the spice for Day 1.
After checking in at the Jewel Hotel in Karnal which was comfortable, we ventured out to a Dhaba close by, for dinner,
( Zhil Mil ) which turned out to be much below expectations. Incidentally there were THREE Zhil Mil’s right next to each other. So we took the option of going to the most crowded, which was the logic for the most popular Zhil Mil. But we were tired and hungry so managed to eat well. The throng of inquisitive youngsters at the Dhaba, the Hotel and pretty much along the way, wherever we stopped, had us sharing the USP of this adventure trip which fascinated them.
The Fortuner has been performing as expected and all of us enjoyed being behind the wheel, the vagaries of traffic and road conditions, notwithstanding!
We turned in after dinner and looked forward to the next leg tomorrow, the 16th of May 2010.. But not before I had put our Day 1 experience on the Blog.
Incidentally Nisheeth was entrusted with the central accounts for expenditure incurred which he capably handled.
A quick recap of the stretches and time covered on day 1 reads as under:
• Lucknow to Sitapur: 80 Km, 1 hour 30 minutes. Road still under widening interspaced with rough patches.
• Sitapur to Shahjanpur: 80 Km, 1 hour 30 minutes. Road conditions good but two track highway.
• Shajahanpur to Barielly: 80 Km. 1 hour 30 mins. Road conditiond fair but driving through Barielly a nightmare as there was no bypass.
• Barielly to Moradabad: 90 Km. 2 Hours. Road conditions good but HEAVY vehicular traffic and multiple railway crossings.
• Moradabad to Meerut: 120 Km. 1 Hour 30 Minutes. Road Conditions excellent. Highway. Going through Meerut however was arduous and city traffic painful.
• Meerut to Baghpat: 50 Km. 1 Hour. The road, a state highway was decent but traffic was consistent. Passing through Baghpat though was complicated as we had to negotiate narrow crowded bazaars and streets.
• Rohtak to Karnal: 80 Km. 1 Hour 30 Minutes. A mix of excellent highway though partly under expansio
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